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Thread: NBV4 PCB Light Strip Won't Activate

  1. #11

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    Crud. I guess I have to rewire most of it then. If you look at my diagram, between the recharge port, the switch and the board, the positive touches all 3. The negative coming off the battery touches all 3 as well. Wouldn’t all of that need to be reworded?

    It seems like the only thing that doesn’t need to be reworded is the power to the LED on the switch, the data line to the LED strip and the speakers?

  2. #12

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    It gets complicated. The wires that touch the switch (LED, signal and related grounds) don’t need to be larger gauge, BUT the wires to and from the board should be where the battery (+) and (-) and the Neopixel ground wires (-) are concerned. So yeah, you’re going to be doing a decent amount of rewiring.
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  3. #13

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    Dang it! Ok, if that'll fix the speaker static problem and the light strip color issue, I guess your tagline (at the end of your posts) is legit (LOL).

    So everything touching the recharge port and the Neopixel ground wires. Does it matter that the ground from the board to the switch is 24 gauge? I made a solder joint between it and the board ground to go to the switch.

    I'm looking to be able to disconnect it (as needed) would you suggest using these:
    https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/D...Pin-P1568.aspx

  4. #14

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    It doesn’t matter if the ground to the switch is 24 gauge. If you have the room, you can use those deans connectors. I use those (and variants of those) at certain junctures in my Neopixel builds.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #15

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    Ok... I'm kind of upset here. I spent another $100 on the shop to get all of the components I'd need to get the saber working the way you told me I had to. I spent a decent amount of time re-soldering, and when I powered it up with the new 15A battery, I got the same exact thing as was happening with the other battery! I'm getting massive static out of the speaker if I have the blade attached. Also, the strip is lighting up, but it isn't lighting up to the color programmed into the card.

    Did I just spend more money for no reason?
    Last edited by ahuppert; 07-22-2021 at 11:12 AM.

  6. #16

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    Not likely. I would recommend you sign up to FX-Sabers and ask this question over there, at the board’s creator (Erv’ - Plecter Labs) has his troubleshooting section there.

    As for the colors, that sounds like a configuration or misdirected wiring issue.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 07-22-2021 at 11:23 AM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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  9. #19

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    I also just changed out for 2 other blades and I'm getting the same results.

  10. #20
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Are you sure the battery is fully charged? They do not come with a full charge.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

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