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Thread: NBV4 PCB Light Strip Won't Activate

  1. #1

    Default NBV4 PCB Light Strip Won't Activate

    I have a Nano Biscotti v4 wired up and powered by a TCSS 3.7v 3400mAh battery. The board powers on, the momentary switch activates, the switch turns on the saber and the sound all works. My problem is that I can't get the light strips to activate. I'm using a blade and hilt side PCB from TCSS and I wired both of them according to their YouTube wiring video. I've checked the connections, and I just can't get it to light up.

    I used a 330 ohm SMD 0603 resistor on the blade side PCB, but it's just not working. I haven't changed any of the programming defaults on the override or config files because I actually wanted it to be RED (the default).

    Any suggestions? I'm attaching my wiring diagram. Thank you SO MUCH in advance, I'm banging my head on the desk here.

    Nano Biscotte Neopixel Wiring v3.jpg

  2. #2

    Default

    You have the wrong battery. You need a 15A battery for Neopixels.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    I have an update for this... I put together a second board and the same thing happened. No pixels. THEN I slapped the blade. The flash and clash must've activated because it turned red (like I wanted) then white, then it went to a yellowish color. If I kill the power completely, it does this every time. If I simple turn it off from the switch, then back on, the LEDs come back on yellowish and flickering.

    Is that still the battery power issue?

    I have this battery:
    https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/C...tery-P945.aspx

    If so, is this the correct battery:
    https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/C...ery-P1587.aspx

  4. #4

    Default

    Yes and yes.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

    Default

    One sidebar... so I'm new to this so please forgive me.

    I FORGOT to tell the NBV4 that I had a Led Strip.

    I changed the parameter from ledstrip=0 to ledstrip=144. That made it WORK! I got it to work! So it's completely working fine with the battery I have. Do I need to change batteries?

    The only problem I have is that the speaker has a ton of static in it when the blade is attached. If I don't have the blade on, there is no static at all.
    Last edited by ahuppert; 07-10-2021 at 04:11 PM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Yes, you still need the other battery.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    Ok. That begs 3 questions:

    1) are the resistors I have on the switch LED (a Dynaohm resistor) and on the data line 330 ohm, still ok?

    2) I have 24/26 gauge wiring on the entire rig. Is that ok for a 15a battery?

    3) what’s causing the static on the speaker?

  8. #8

    Default

    1. Yes.

    2. No, you need 22 gauge for the neopixel wires.

    3. That’s “voltage ripple”. The neopixels are trying to pull more out of your battery than it can comfortably provide, that why your speaker sounds like crap when the lights are on, but sounds fine when they’re “off”
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

    Default

    When you say for the neopixel wires, are you taking the two ground wires that come from the board? What about the positive and the negative wires carrying the juice?

    Also, what about the hot and neutral from the battery, to the switch and to tue board?

  10. #10

    Default

    All of the above are what I mean, except the switch wire. The ground to that can be a smaller gauge.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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