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Thread: Help TCSS design an activator box

  1. #21
    Jedi Council Member Firebird21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supertrogdor
    What have you done to keep your activation box on your saber Firebird? Or is that the problem, that you haven't been able to, perhaps a locknut on the inside of the hilt may help, or would you want a curved piece to put between the inside of the hilt so the locknut could rest on a flat surface? Tossing out a couple thoughts, what do you think?
    I've used the stock screws, larger-loner ones, and really course threaded ones... They all strip out after a duel. There's just not enough meat on the hilt to hold a screw with that much force, add to that the fact that it's aluminum and there's a real problem.

    Also, the fact that the radius of the Luke Box is larger than the MHS allows it to rock back and forth adding additional stress to said bolts, doesn’t help matters.


    I think a carriage for a lock nut, like you're talking about, would be a great solution. Something that fits the inside diameter of the hilt and will hold probably both lock nuts. But also slim so it doesn't take up too much space inside the hilt.


    One thing I'd ask to be included with every box is a template for the screw holes and the inside hole of the box. It was a challenge to get those holes straight, and the center is still not completely cleaned out.



    Edit: After re-reading Tim's post, I think one removable side is a very good idea. It would make installation of switches much easier, and it will add some more dimension and character to the box.
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  2. #22

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    I placed a layer of adhesive-backed craft foam between the Luke box and the MHS on the newest saber I built that I will be showing off this weekend. The box doesn't rock back and forth, is held on to the MHS with a couple 6-32 socket head screws, and I haven't had any problems...and I'll bet I dual as hard as anybody out there.

    Maybe the layer of foam makes enough of a difference?

  3. #23
    Jedi Council Member Firebird21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonitus
    I placed a layer of adhesive-backed craft foam between the Luke box and the MHS on the newest saber I built that I will be showing off this weekend. The box doesn't rock back and forth, is held on to the MHS with a couple 6-32 socket head screws, and I haven't had any problems...and I'll bet I dual as hard as anybody out there.

    Maybe the layer of foam makes enough of a difference?

    Excellent idea! I'll have to try that! That would help hold it on and keep it from rocking.

    Brilliant!



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  4. #24
    Sith Acolyte DACOTA's Avatar
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    I'm gonna go out on the limb here, but what if it wasn't a box? Like at the edges make it slope down to the hilt and have recessed holes for screws.
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  5. #25
    Jedi Padawan jjshumpert's Avatar
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    Default switch boxes



    box radius to fit mhs, cutouts on one side to look like vents, slide off top. other side cut out for switch.

  6. #26
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    I agree with Dacota... something curved, something low profile, something that is NOT a giant rectangle that sticks out like a sore thumb from the saber.

    For clarification, I come from the "non-canon, I-don't-care-if-my-saber-looks-like-it's-Obi-Gonn-Skywalker's-or-Darth-Katarn's" kind of opinion... and naturally I look for something recessed and duel-friendly.
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  7. #27

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    I like Dacota and Nova's point of view... here's the CUSTOM saber shop, not the REPLICA saber shop.

    however, I still want one of them box to put on a specific saber design of mine. Might get a Luke EPVI FX for that specific purpose.


    Something I'd like is a modular activation matrix system (MAMS)* that would consist of a base (maybe even a MHS base) on which we'd add the elevation part (round, rectangle, you choose) over wich you would have a custom activation matrix (some could have holes for leds and the like)

    this way, no 2 switch box would be identical, and you'd have room for extra ones for better customization.


    * alternate names:
    Modular Switch Box System (MSBS)
    Modular Activation Box System (MABS)
    Modular Clamp System (MCS)
    Modular Button Box System (MBBS)
    -Mars

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  8. #28
    supertrogdor's Avatar
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    suppose we have Tim machine a flat section on an MHS piece (akin to the flat machined hole for switches) to allow for a modular box with a flat bottom, not sure if that would save overall time/expense of creation, just a thought that sprung up
    FSM What's on your belt?

  9. #29

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    The only down side to machining a flat spot on the saber is that the box might not be installed straight. The curvature of the saber and the corresponding curvature machined into the bottom of the box helps allign the two and keeps things straight.

  10. #30

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    I'd like a switchbox in the 1 3/4'' to 2'' range.

    What I think would be cool is if you could get a spring-loaded plastic plate in the middle of the top of the box, just like the Hasbro sabers. That way you could use some clear plastic, put some LEDs (or EL wire) behind it, and etch out a cool design in the top that would glow all nice. Maybe something like this:

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