Help TCSS design an activator box

[Jonitus]

JMHO:

Make it only as long as the shortest piece of the MHS - currently 2.5 inches. Height should be around 1/2 inch, and width should be around 1/2 inch.

I think that a plain rectangular box would work best initially, perhaps smoothing off the sharp corners ever so slightly so they don't catch on anything.

The tops of the box could easily be modular. Whether they slide into machined channels on the box (easiest), or bolt on.

Here's a sketch. Probably easier than trying to discern meaning from my post:

[Barmic Rin]

That's basically what I was trying to say, but make one side modular too, if you want a side mount switch!

[Marsupial]

Jonitus has the perfect design IMHO.

I'd make so the dimensions fit the "standard" calculator bubbles and circuits for high compatibility with the market.

[Firebird21]

I like the size of the Luke box, but I think the biggest issue with the boxes is how to mount them and how to mount stuff in them and still keep it as universal as possible.


As for size you need to be able to accommodate a switch and at least a couple of LEDs, because I know a lot of people are going to be cramming as much stuff into these as possible. I for one would be putting a J-Plug in it, (and if I had the room I would have had small LEDs behind the arrows on my Luke).

One other quick issue I'm finding is that when dueling, no screw is strong enough to hold the box onto the hilt without stripping out.

OK, to focus on the matter at hand, I think Clamp-type boxes would be good, but may be hard to produce cost effectively. Possibly having a 4-seporate-sided box would allow for more customization, but hard to assemble and be reliable.

I like Jonitus' setup as at least a starting point. It's basic, simple, easy to use, easy to manufacture, durable... However I think a top that would slide over it and cover the top of the box would be a good idea, as well as having a simple piece that slides into it.


I have more opinions, but lets see where this goes first. I don’t want to get too far ahead.

[fau-pa ramid]

ok i like that one alot! i would buy that in a heart beat.

[Tenric Starkindler]

if you want it modular why not go all the way.....the recommended dimensions seem just about perfect but what about:

1) make a base that is curved to fit the hilts and that attaches directly.

2) make a mid/body of the box that slides or attaches to the base. there could be a few different styles (open side/ open top / two open sides / rounded corners / polished / brassy)

3) then make a few tops/sides to finish it off.

a three piece system (one of which would be "universal"/ the base plate)

I think it makes for a very customizeable system........

the mid body could slide over the base plate and be secured by either small set screww or pressure from the base plate being tightened to the hilt.
then the top/sides could be added in and there would be quite a few combinations possible.......

include anodizing and it would be perfect!

[Ryma Mara]

About the onlything I can think of to make them MHS style is to make them actual clamp like.

[Tenric Starkindler]

considering the neww offering of PLIs the activator box would have to include a method of using a PLI as well.............I mean Have to

[Ryma Mara]

Yeah maybe make it so you can slide the pli in it but I was also likeing the idea of taking tims switch and fitting it in the box. make it kinda clamp like so you just take a button head screw or something to bring the walls togeather just enought to hold the switch tightly in there.

[supertrogdor]

What have you done to keep your activation box on your saber Firebird? Or is that the problem, that you haven't been able to, perhaps a locknut on the inside of the hilt may help, or would you want a curved piece to put between the inside of the hilt so the locknut could rest on a flat surface? Tossing out a couple thoughts, what do you think?