Help TCSS design an activator box

[Corbin_Das]

Hi all
Well, we're thinking of making some sort of activation box. We'd like to get some opinions regarding what you would like it to be like. Things like dimensions, general shape, features and what not.


So please, feel free to post away.



Corbin

[Ryma Mara]

I would love to see a low profile type box.

Like Just enought to where the plundger of the switch is sticking out the top just a bit. something styled like the machined "clamps".

I would love a switch box kinda like the one on your C&L box.

MAybe some slide switches to go with these so we could make out own luke rotj switch box.

[Barmic Rin]

Slide switches yes, but how about at the top, not the side, more like the MR vader ESB one.
Definitely lower profile than MR ones so you don't catch your hand on the corners as you duel. Curved off corners too.

[jjshumpert]

after talking with ryma the other nite about the possibility of using a switch similar to touch activated lamps, i thought it would be an awesome idea to have a "force activation" system.

lets say you were using an mpp clamp with threaded lever, you could place rubber into the channel for the bubble strip and then lay in the touch plate over that so it wont touch the metal of the clamp itself and then place either a memory chip over the top or a bubble strip with a small pin inside one of the cells so that touching a certain point on the box would activate the saber. rubber isolation would have to be used to ensure the hilt wouldnt activate by touching the hilt itself.

i would also like to see a stock of micro pressure switches in place of sliders, ie these could be used in place of mr mpp style sliding bubbles like that used on the vader with a pin to activate somewhere in the bubble strip.

as for the boxes themselves it would be nice to set up a mhs builder style box designer, something that would allow for choosing between several basic outer shapes, threaded holes for mounting, switch locations, lighting...

myself i would most want a good option for mpp/heiland and graflex style clamps. i have a few sources that could be used to stock these for a good price, and its one of those things that i personally prefer to buy and design to fit my needs instead of dealing with the huge pain of fabricating a clamp from stock.

ill be playing around with some design ideas on this subject, and as soon as i figure out working models ill post my results.

[Strydur]

I would like to see this work a little differently. I want this first box we build to be a modular system. Probably just different tops but maybe one side also or something. But before we can start designing how it works we need to come up with the basic overall dimensions. So before we work on anything else I want everyones input on what the height,length, and width should be.

[vortextwist]

I don't mind the lengths and widths on the mr's but the height is too much.

[Barmic Rin]

.5" high, 2.25" long, 1.25" wide.
How's that? Too small?
I think that'd be a comfortable size, noticable but not overbearing on a hilt.

[Dregan]

I second what Stryder says - make it modular. You could have a square, beveled tube that would be the body, available in different heights, and then different faceplates that sit on that.

If you screw the faceplate down, the body would be held in place by tension. You could even do body sections that wrap around the entire MHS like a Graflex clamp.

From there, TCSS or the builder can machine whatever slider/switch/PLI/whahoozit holes are necessary.

I have no rendering skills (nor software) so I might not be annunciating my thought clearly.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I would have it be around 2 inches long, 1/2 inch tall, and about 1/2-9/16 inches wide. I like the modular top idea, as well.

[Barmic Rin]

How about a MHS graflex style clamp? Threaded both ends kinda like the m/m coupler? Have it slightly longer, and attach an empty box atop it so that you can change the covers/switch if you want?

Maybe have the base, both ends, and one side attached permanently, have a pair of grooves at the open side so you can change it from a blank plate to a switched one if you want a side-switch instead of a top one?

Am I making myself clear, or have I just confused you all as much as i've confused myself?