Pico Crumble V2.5 LED/Wiring Issue

[Rogue Jedi]

Hello Saber Forum,

I've wired up a Pico Crumble V2.5 for my DIY lightsaber project and everything works great except the red diode is continuously lit when out of Deep Sleep Mode. I'm able to perform all the configuration operations including MOTG, Forced Deep Sleep, Color Changing, etc. I built the entire saber using parts from TCCS. This includes a Tri-Cree XP-E2 G/R/rB LED, 12mm AV switch with LED, Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack, the Panasonic 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB protected rechargeable battery, and a 4 Ohm Stealth premium speaker just to give you some background. I'm sure I haven't bridged any joints. The red cathode is attached to the Middle Direct Drive LED Channel (Middle Black wire). And the button LED uses the 3.3V Power Indicator pad. Both light up when the saber is awakened from Deep Sleep Mode (Was only intending on the button LED lighting up). The other two channels appear to be working fine. When color changing I can get the pure Red and all the oranges, yellows, pinks, etc. But none of the Green and Blue tones because the Red LED won't turn off. Any ideas, or things I can do to check board components/wiring would be greatly appreciated. I love Plector Lab soundboards and can't wait to work my way up to the CFX (Top Tier in my opinion). Looking forward to hearing back as I'm currently stumped.

Thank you and sorry in advance if I'm not leaving enough information to help,
Rogue Jedi

Soundboard Picture:

On the Right
Speaker wires

On the Left (Top to Bottom)
Yellow – Activation AV Switch
Blue – Blue LED
Black – Red LED (Always ON)
White (Underneath) – Positive Switch LED to the Power Indicator on the underside of the board
Green – Green LED
Double White – Negative from the Sleeve shunt of the Switchcraft & the Negative Switch LED
Red – Positive Battery, Switchcraft, Activation AV Switch, and MAIN LED Module (Attached to the underside of the board)
Black – Batter Negative to Switchcraft Negative

PicoCrumbleV2.5_Wiring.jpg

Wiring Diagram

PicoCrumbleV2.5_WiringDiagram.jpg

Forgot to mention. I've since rewired all but the Positive (Red), Switch (Yellow), and Speaker connections on the soundboard. Mostly just to clean up all that excess solder and be sure that bridges don't exist. I got the exact same result described above wire the cleaner wiring. I'm really hoping that the Direct Drive LED Channel I've connected the red die to isn't fried, but I'm not sure how to check it. I have a multimeter. Unfortunately, I'm still really new to saber building and need help. I'm fairly certain my soldering station is ESD safe. Thanks again!

Update (01/10/2021)
I reached out to Plector Labs and Erv was able to help me diagnose the issue with the soundboard. I apparently fried one of the transistors common to the LED Channels. I'm going to attempt to fix/replace the broken transistor to see if that fixes my issue. If I'm able to fix the problem I'll be sure to post some more pics and a novice explanation on how I did it. Thanks again Saber Forum. And I huge shout out to Erv from Plector Labs! He has been super helpful and quick to answer my questions.