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Thread: Korbanth DM1 Darth Maul 2018 Version (Need advice on parts to buy from TCSS)

  1. #1

    Default Korbanth DM1 Darth Maul 2018 Version (Need advice on parts to buy from TCSS)

    Hi All,

    Sadly this forum ignores "DM1" when I use the search function and I've been looking for several days for posts about the topics I need help with but I can't find them.

    I have 2 questions:

    1) can I use the 1" ID heat sink module/blade holder found in the store, or do I need the special .875" OD blade holder and a modified tri cree? There is definitly 1" of space in the hilt of this saber so I believe it will fit, but I want to be sure before I order.
    2) has anyone used the chassis parts (discs, etc) in the store for a chassis for this saber (Any DM1)? I would like to go that route if I can, I'm not buying 3d printed parts and i'm not going to buy a 3d printer. The Acrylic Chassis Disc for MHSV2 NB - S18 seem ideal for this, and that's what I would go with.

    I plan on using the smaller 18500 batteries for this because I just finished an LS6 gullwing and it was so tight in there that the shrink wrap from the 18650 ripped (I fixed it, it's safe). I don't have these sabers on for more than a few minutes so the lower battery life is not a problem.

    Thanks!

    I am going to order all my parts Friday to take advantage of the sale.

  2. #2

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    Well I've done the prior version of the DM1, so I'll offer what I can.
    This version still has a .88" internal diameter. So no a 1" module will not fit, you'll need the .87 which works perfectly. The smallest chassis discs are still 1" so with a lot of sanding I don't think those will work for you. You may need to look for a 3d printed solution, you'll have to check for a generic that's in the .88" size range. That's how i handled my second end,...the first I made a board chassis out of PVC,....but it didnt work too well and the 3d printed solution worked much better.

  3. #3

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    Well that's a bummer. But you saved me a ton in parts I couldn't use! Thanks! Do I really need all 5 pieces from the slytools dm1 3d parts?

  4. #4

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    I'll come up with something, I do have some extra 3d chassis parts that I never used from my LS6, maybe they will be ok, but I was really hoping MHS could pull this off. Maybe they need to make a .88" MHS "V3" for these smaller sabers.

  5. #5

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    I used the separate 7/8" 3d chassis parts from slytools for this, it worked out well. Honestly, the ID is really 1" so you CAN use the MHS from TCSS for this, the ID becomes .88" once you use the supplied inner collars, which you really don't need in my opinion if you can make one solid 1" MHS build. The only part on here that is always .88" is the top collar for the blade holder. That piece is removable and you shouldn't need any of that part for your electronics, it can house the blade only. This version comes with usable switches, but you need to cover their points on the top with electrical tape or you might get it to activate by itself a lot. Also, both switches on each switch board are linked, so no matter which one you wire to, they will turn it on. I have my first half sort of done, it turns on, I just haven't glued the top red/silver buttons on yet.

  6. #6

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    Anyone have instructions on how to build the DM1 hilt.

    Kevin

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