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Thread: Ideas for Hiding Blade Holder Seam

  1. #1

    Default Ideas for Hiding Blade Holder Seam

    I could use some help coming up with a way to hide the seam between my blade holder and the next section of the saber I'm working on. I originally wanted to use a trim ring, but the site says not to do that. I know I can use some of the size 2 clocking washers to compensate for the gap between the blade holder and heat sink caused by the trim ring, but in all the threads I've read about trim rings and blade holders, I haven't found anyone saying this is 100% OK to do. Does anybody have any suggestions or advice? Thank you for any insight you guys may have!

  2. #2


    Anything can be compensated for. The LED module or pixel blade connector is designed to be clamped between the two pieces. There is no reason not do do what you want to do if you can make it work.

  3. #3


    You can use a trim ring if there already is a gap, but normally there shouldn’t be one. I would actually put it together with the heatsink inside before making any decisions.
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  4. #4


    Thank you for the replies. I did try putting it together with the trim ring without the clocking washers, and there is a gap that causes the heatsink to rattle. I'll try the clocking washers and see how that works. Thanks again, guys.

  5. #5


    Hey @Renneck ! I sand the female parts by standing them on a flat surface covered in 600 grit wet, wet-dry sandpaper. Simply hold the part down near its base and twist it around with a little downward pressure. Keep your hand, and the part in the same position rotating the part only a few degrees at a time. I repeat the process with 1200 and 2000 grit. Once that's nice and flat, screw it together with the adjoining part and sand the seam with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around it. It takes a minute to chase the male side deburing bevel down, but if you keep your pressure even along both parts there won't be any warbling. If you preplan your female side sanding, you can get your clocking done at the same time. I hope this helps! Good Luck on your seam hiding!

    P.S. If you designed your chassis to slip out the back of the hilt, you could always skip the sanding at first and silver-solder the joint. Then sand down any overflow.

  6. #6


    Have you determined what is causing the gap? The TCSS parts are designed to marry together already, so if there is a gap, you should find out what is obstructing the module for seating properly.

  7. #7


    I'm sorry. I guess I was a little unclear about the gap issue. If I DO NOT use the trim ring behind the blade holder, then everything screws together just fine, and the male end of the blade holder holds the heatsink in place perfectly. However, I don't like the look of the line where the blade holder ends and the female connector begins, so I was trying to hide it with a trim ring. The problem is, when I use the trim ring, it messes up the internal spacing by adding about a 3/32" gap between male end of the blade holder and the aluminum LED housing of the heatsink, so the blade holder no longer holds the LED module in place, causing it to rattle around. I've read that the size 2 clocking washers can remedy this issue, but I haven't seen a lot of people signing off 100% that it's the best option, so I was looking for advice or even alternative ideas to hide the lines between MHS pieces. I really appreciate all of you guys chipping in with your input, and I would love to see all the ways you guys have hidden the lines in your sabers. Thanks again, everyone!

  8. #8


    I think everyone is over thinking this and you have a plan to make it work. Ultimately, you can sand or shim, and in either case it's not that complicated.

  9. #9


    Put a shroud on it, weather it, paint it, ignore it with the realization that a real jedi would still have to build his saber with mixed parts meaning that a seam somewhere would still exist.

  10. #10


    I am just going to second on using a shroud. That is how I concealed the blade holder seam on my MHS saber.


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