Li-Ion/Polymer 3.6v batteries... your experiences?

[MATRIXtjb]

I just wanted to say i have 3 of them 3.7 LI-Ion batts and with the size of them they would work perfect for a lux v system with an ultrasound 7.4v would work wonders i was thinking it would prolly reduce the tube diameter abit

[Novastar]

They certainly help with space issues, considering the extra voltage vs. size trade-offs.

Also, you can wire up a "triad" of 11.1v for Ultra's driver as well. It can handle up to 12v, and will simply "use" the extra voltage as current when needed with whatever setup you have.

On a Lux V, you should get a longer run-time at an ideal brightness when using 11.1v. Whereas with 7.2 or 7.4... you may only have ideal brightness for a short period of time.

[Clockwork]

Hey Everyone,

this is my first post, I have been considering building a saber for quite some time and recently my girlfriend told me she didn't like me having a dark side saber (ANH-Vader MR) and wanted me to build a light side saber. Well who wouldn't jump at the approval of one's better half eh? So here I am. I have decided to go all out an get a CF when Erv gets the next batch done and I intent to use Li-ion batteries. Hence why this post is in this topic. My question is, using a either a Green K2 or a Green Rebel and the CF, should I plan on a 3.7/3.6v setup, or a 7.2/7.4v setup?

[Jonitus]

Based on my own experiences, go with the 7.2/7.4 setup. With a pack of that voltage, and if you can get one with a 2400mAh capacity, you could get nearly 4 hour runtimes out of your K2 saber between recharge times.

If that kind of pack is not available to you, Li-Ion batteries are still a better technology, IMHO. Regardless, go with the 7.2/7.4 setup, so you can have a nice long runtime out of your saber.

[Clockwork]

Based on my own experiences, go with the 7.2/7.4 setup. With a pack of that voltage, and if you can get one with a 2400mAh capacity, you could get nearly 4 hour runtimes out of your K2 saber between recharge times.

If that kind of pack is not available to you, Li-Ion batteries are still a better technology, IMHO. Regardless, go with the 7.2/7.4 setup, so you can have a nice long runtime out of your saber.

Thanks Jonitus, I had a feeling the 7.2/7.4v was more suitable. Is it worth putting four 18650's in the hilt to grab 4800mAh? or is that excessive?

[Hasid Lafre]

if you got the space for it I say go for it.

[Novastar]

I'd say it's excessive and expensive unless you need 5 hours of un-interrupted runtime (when going direct drive/resistor only).

I can only imagine how long a Plecter setup would run off of 4800mah. I'd imagine I'd see about 7 hours, considering I already saw 3+ off of an old runtime test with the v1.2 boards!

[Stinky Bantha]

Speaking of runtimes, Novastar. Have you had any experience with a 4AAA cell nimh setup and CF driving a green K2 at say 1.3A? I need to cut down on size, and I was wondering if the runtimes were so abysmal with the AAA pack that it would be worth it to try to embark on a time-consuming quest to squeeze the 4 cell AA pack into my hilt.

[Novastar]

Let's see...

* I've never used Ni-Mh nor Ni-Cad to power sabers--I think they are pointless for them, personally...
* What is the mah rating of the cells you're using?
* How will you be wiring them up? As in--will the voltage be 4.8v or 3.6v or what?
* If you go with this AAA thing... I'd wire them for 4.8v or higher.
* If you're looking to save space... do you have any qualms about Li-Ion? They will do exactly that: save space.

[Stinky Bantha]

It's going to be 4 cells, so 4.8v. It's the pack sold here, and it's got 1000 mah. I realize it's going to be less than an hour, but I'm just not sure how much time the board will add since it's not really running at the full amperage all the time.

I'm definitely thinking about Li-Ion's, but for now I'd like to use what I've got. Moreover, I don't really need exceptionally long runtimes, since I can't think of a time when I would need to keep the saber on for more than an hour.