lead-free vs leaded solder?

[mrlemon]

Ahoy from Seattle!

Any preferences between leaded (60/40) vs. lead-free solder?
I hear leaded solder works better, but haven't looked into it.

Parents ask that I don't use leaded solder around my students, so I don't, but for my own projects, I was wondering if there's a discernible advantage.

Thanks!

[Light Bringer]

It's all preference really, I use lead free in my engineering classes bc they supply it, but I use leaded at home. I feel like I get better heat transfer and solder flow resulting in nice joints from the leaded flow so thats my go to. But realistically either would be fine

[darth_chasm]

As mentioned, leaded flows much better and is much easier to work with. If the fumes make you nervous you can get an extractor fan or get creative and make one from a cheap computer case fan and charcoal filter.

[mrlemon]

Thanks, Light Bringer! I appreciate your advice!
And please look for a new post from me - soon, I hope - with student questions on wiring strategy ... your input would be invaluable.

[mrlemon]

Thanks, Darth Chasm! Excellent point - the extractor fan is a must.
And as I mentioned in my post to Light Bringer, please look for a new post from me - soon, I hope - with student questions on wiring strategy ... your input would be invaluable.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You’ll find that tin/lead with a little silver will likely work the best. It’s what the pros use. 😉🤫

[Rorastrand]

One problem with tin based solder is whiskers. Over time the solder joints may grow whiskers that can cause shorts if they impinge on a nearby joint. My company has spent years working on processes to reduce the risk in our manufacturing process as we make DAL A aerospace products and have RoHS obligations to meet. For a lightsaber build, the solder joints made by hobby soldering is probably far enough apart to negate the risk, but for very dense SMT boards, this can be a problem.