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Thread: First build and NBv4 (RGB) wiring diagram questions

  1. #1

    Default First build and NBv4 (RGB) wiring diagram questions

    I am finally putting together my Ahsoka hilts from Solo's Hold that Ive had since 2016. Ive been scared to get it going, but finally decided to pull the trigger after lurking here for so long and the quarantine. Im obviously not an experienced electronics hobbyist, this will be my first attempt, but Ive done a lot of research and am excited to get started (I wish someone hadnt removed their entire video catalog..., I loved the full NB v3 build from start to finish).

    Below is my wiring diagram for both hilts, the only difference from the large vs small hilt is the battery size (18650 vs 14500), but voltage is the same. I got my resistor values assuming a fully charged battery at 4.2V, though I know nominal is 3.7V, either way it should be fine, with a Tri Cree Red/Green/Royal blue LED. And as you can see, there are 2 switches per hilt wired together as per the install instructions from nerfworxlab/Goth-3designs install.

    Are the resistors of ample size?

    Where the 4 wires come together on the positive and negative section, do those 4 need to be soldered together onto the board, or can I join them together an inch or so away so I can run one wire to each postive and negative connector and save space near the board?

    Please let me know if you see anything wrong or that should be changed.

    Last edited by SchaF; 05-19-2020 at 09:20 PM.

  2. #2


    Welcome to the Forums. The NB only supports one switch, so I don’t know why you need two. Also, the resistors would probably be better off on the negative sides of the circuit.
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3


    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Welcome to the Forums. The NB only supports one switch, so I don’t know why you need two. Also, the resistors would probably be better off on the negative sides of the circuit.
    Thanks for the reply, Ive been a long time lurker. Each hilt comes with 2 switches, one on each side. According to the build/install steps, youre just supposed to wire them together. I will move the resistors to the negative side; are them of ample ohm/wattage based on the TriCree RGB and 3.7V Lithium? Can you share why they go on the negative side? Pretty sure Im naive, but I would think the power circuit is flowing from the positive side to the negative side, so the resistor would be on the positive side.

    Also, is this setup correct, based on a power extender use, for a NBv4 and a TriCree RBG?

    Another question, where the 4 wires come together for both the positive and negative sections, do those 4 wires have to be connected and soldered to the board at once, or can I join them a little further away and tie them to a single wire (save space by the board connector)?

    EDIT: I have updated the image based on the changes if you could take another look.
    Last edited by SchaF; 05-19-2020 at 09:15 PM.

  4. #4


    Your resistors are stout, and will under-drive the LED's a tad. It will work. FJK has a tagline/link to Ohm's Law, and TCSS does have a calculator. You need to plug in the mA/fV of your diodes along with your power supply into the TCSS calculator, and it will give you better resistor options. On most cree LED's, I use 1.2 ohm resistors for red, and .47 ohm resistors on green and blue. You can also merge your positives on the star to reduce wiring clutter like this:


    If you wire your switches like you have in the diagram, they will both be able to operate saber functions, but yeah, NBIV only uses one switch at a time. Make sure you diagnose the cutoff leg on the recharge port properly. Confusing battery negative with cutoff will make your life difficult. Power extender wiring looks correct. Here is mine on a NBIV, white wire was negative, blue wire from L3, and then the open pad receives the negative wire from the Blue diode on the star.

    "Let the past die."


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