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Thread: Rando questions: Wire quality, recharge vs swapping batteries

  1. #1

    Default Rando questions: Wire quality, recharge vs swapping batteries

    Hi, all. I've searched around and have been compiling as much information as possible for my saber project but try as I might, there are still a couple topics that I either can't seem to find a clear answer to (possibly due to my own lack of understanding) or there's some debate on the matter and no clear winner. So I thought I'd ask a few of those questions here if that's alright. If you want, I can split them up into separate ones and find the appropriate threads, no problem just let me know.

    Short background: I'm building an MHS v1 hilt, neo pixel, CFX saber. I have some soldering experience and have a hard time 'ramping up' with projects so I just dive right in (to mixed results). I have the shtokCustom blade-side pcb with the extra 5 leds, I would like to use a 16mm switch with a ring light, and *maybe* a lit momentary switch/accent light - I don't know if that matters but it's more lights and I'm asking battery questions.

    I also plan on using the dynaohm resisters because a.) I suck at math, b. what if I need to change the type of battery.

    1. Batteries: recharge port or not recharge port (that is the question) plus how much juice?

    I started out thinking that the right thing to do was a single 18650 3.7v battery was the answer and now I don't know. A lot of the batteries have the JST connectors built in so that leads me to think that most people would recharge them. But other people say that's a huge pain (the charge time) so to use the button top kind with a battery holder so you can swap (which I guess means you'd have to design your chassis such that wasn't a huge deal. more on that later).

    Then there are the folks that say to use the 7.4 packs but the tutorials I've seen usually just have the one pack so I don't even know how that fits into a holder (maybe they don't and those are always for recharging via a port).

    QUESTION: what's your opinion? Port or swap? Is a single cell 3.7v enough for my application, in your opinion?



    2. Chassis: I was thinking about buying the STL from GOTH3D to print my own but damned if I can find the right one for what I'm doing. I think the ID is 1.24" but there are so, so many versions they have.

    QUESTION: Anyone use one of those chassis for their MHS sabers with success?


    3. Pommel fitting: I bought a weird (apparently) pommel that I'm actually having trouble finding again. I think I first found it using the builder then added it to the cart and bought it. I've never been able to find it again. Thing is, the pommel insert doesn't fit in there. Like it's not really meant to because the ID isn't big enough. That makes me think I'll have chassis fitting problems too.

    QUESTION: does any of the chassis need to fit into the pommel? because if so, I don't think a 28mm speaker will fit in this thing.

    4. (final question!) Wires: I bought 24 gauge because it seemed like the best all around and I wanted to err on the side of too thick rather than too thin and not able to handle the voltage. Also, I bought wire from two different places. 1. My local electronic store. They had a pack of different color wires, no spool or anything, but they seem ok but kind of stiff. 2. I THINK I got these other spools from TCSS. I hadn't really don't anything with them so I got them out of the box and they're like...super flexible and rubbery. I had the thought that the rubbery ones would ease a lot of stress from the solder joint versus the stiff ones but I don't have any practical experience there.

    QUESTION: Which is the better wire to use? Flexible or stiff?

    Thank you all very much for indulging me and do let me know if I broke protocol. I'm excited to keep my project going and will post pictures of my WIP design in the gallery soon.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    To answer of your questions:

    1. Recharge ports are an individual choice. There are pros and cons to either option. The 3.7V 15A batter will be sufficient for your build.

    2. I personally haven’t. The chassis from the store are more geared toward in hilt recharging builds.

    3. Without knowing which pommel you got (I’ll assume the conical pointy one), it’s hard to say.

    4. It’s not a question of flexible or stiff. The higher gauge wire (22-24 gauge) are necessary to sufficiently power the neopixels and to run the main power. Switches and other items can use 28-30 gauge (the flexible wires).
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    Re: Battery

    Dang - I bought a couple batteries and I think they're actually 10amps.
    I got these Insufficient?


    What do *you* prefer? (recharge or swap)


    Pommel:

    That's fair, I'll try to add a picture (sorry for potato quality)
    WIN_20200406_12_56_56_Pro.jpg


    Re: Wires

    Sorry, I meant when it came to wire-fu and keeping stress off the solder joint. I was watching a lot of the TCSS videos and he takes great care in how he twists and bends things around. The rubbery ones feel like they would handle that nicely but I didn't know if that flexibility was a sign of poor quality or not.
    Last edited by Alderscorn; 04-06-2020 at 10:09 AM.

  4. #4

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    Hey Alderscorn

    recharge or swap
    Well; its not really that easy. What works for FJK might not work for you. It is strongly advised to RTFM for the CFX before you “dive right in”. Are you planning on using the saber for duelling or just display / play? A properly hardwired battery with recharge port is more impact resistant than an individual battery in a “holder”.

    Dang - I bought a couple batteries and I think they're actually 10amps.
    I got these Insufficient?
    Those would be great for a high power flashlight... but for a pixel saber you really need something with at least 15 amp rating.

    Do you know if the wires you bought locally are solid-strand or a multi-strand wire? That will make a difference when planning what to use where.

    -Steve

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    Hey Alderscorn


    Well; its not really that easy. What works for FJK might not work for you. It is strongly advised to RTFM for the CFX before you “dive right in”. Are you planning on using the saber for duelling or just display / play? A properly hardwired battery with recharge port is more impact resistant than an individual battery in a “holder”.

    Those would be great for a high power flashlight... but for a pixel saber you really need something with at least 15 amp rating.

    Do you know if the wires you bought locally are solid-strand or a multi-strand wire? That will make a difference when planning what to use where.

    -Steve

    Well, when I say "dive right in", I guess I meant more that I don't like doing 'starter projects'. I'm doing my best to collect as much information as I can. I haven't bought the CFX yet even, but I'll read the manual the best I can.

    It'll be for playing around and display, not for actual dueling. That said, I'd rather over-build it rather than have something fragile, so if hardwiring a battery is better for that, that's certainly food for thought. I guess I have some extra batteries then! I guess they're too much of a pain to sell to someone and ship. I think I got the link to those batteries from a reddit thread about their battery. I just realized I bought a charger too (from tcss) so...oh well.

    Is *this* the one to get?

    The wires I got locally are stranded but the insulation is a bit...I dunno, stiff.


    TOTAL ASIDE: I just realized. I bought the Shtox NPXL Blade side PSB because I thought "hey why not, it'll make the blade brighter " (plus the tcss one wasn't in stock) but as I'm looking at it I realize I don't understand it. Won't the LEDs be blocked by the wires that wire up the blade strips? I'm dumb...I guess I can make a bladeplug.
    Last edited by Alderscorn; 04-06-2020 at 11:38 AM.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    Hey Alderscorn


    Well; its not really that easy. What works for FJK might not work for you. It is strongly advised to RTFM for the CFX before you “dive right in”. Are you planning on using the saber for duelling or just display / play? A properly hardwired battery with recharge port is more impact resistant than an individual battery in a “holder”.
    I didn’t weigh in one way or the other On the swap v hard wire question. I just said there are pros and cons to both ways.

    I’ve also used both 3D printed chassis and MHS disks in the past, the 3D chassis were NOT FOR MHS builds. Again each has their pros and cons.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    Hey Alderscorn

    Yeah; there is a lot in the manual but CFX is top of the line. You don’t need to know all the ”bells and whistles” but the basics are fairly easy to comprehend.

    I think I got the link to those batteries from a reddit thread about their battery. I just realized I bought a charger too (from tcss) so...oh well.
    You could use those batteries & charger if you switched to an In-hilt HB-LED (tri-Cree / tri-Rebel). Pixel blades seem to be the cats pyjamas right now but there are many very nice in-hilt Sabers - thats pretty much all we had for years!

    Is *this* the one to get?
    Nope. This is the one all the kids seem to be buying. Alternately (as this one is out of stock) you could source one elsewhere but make sure it has a rating of at least 15 amp. The one you linked was only 10 amp.

    Re. the wires; as long as they are the proper gauge use whatever you prefer, either of them will work.

    Re. the blade side connector. Read the manual - its all explained (with pictures) in there.

    @ FJK sorry for the confusion. I was addressing his direct question to you as to which you personally prefer.
    What do *you* prefer? (recharge or swap)
    It wasn't my place to do that. I apologize.

    - Steve

  8. #8

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    I've been building pixel sabers (and other things) with 10 amp batteries for several years without issue. 10amp battery is fine, assuming it is a real, quality battery.

  9. #9

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    Good point - I actually have a couple stunt sabers I was going to upgrade so I'll try the 5amp batteries in those when the time comes.

    You know, I'd started out thinking I would use JST connectors to keep my saber modular (when I took apart a stunt saber I was horrified (lol) by the carnage - had to clip a lot of wires. but with all these amps flying around maybe hardwire is the way to go.

    Although...Shtok makes those connectors for the battery chassis ..kinda look like the neopixel ones with the pins. Hm.

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