Kylo Crossguard 2.0 help

[darth father]

I have a Korbanth Crossguard 2.0 that came installed with RRW tri-Cree main and single red side leds. The board it has is a prizm 5.1. The issue I am having is the tri Cree led is getting super hot! Too hot to touch. Why is this happening? I thing that the white die might be faulty on this tri Cree. Could that be the reason it it getting hot? I have all my positives joined together and resisted before the board. I have all my negatives joined together and resisted before the board. The positives are going to the kill key tab that goes to to the board. The tri Cree negatives are going to L1 and the small side led negatives go to L3 if I remember correctly. The negative for the white die from the tri Cree is on pad L2. Any help would be appreciated.

[Tom Tilmon]

Cree LED's do heat up, that is normal. They should be attached to a metal heat sink to absorb and radiate the heat away from the star. Most of us use copper, it looks like yours are aluminum. What resistors are on the red die? Which battery are you using? What problems besides heat on the stars are you experiencing?

[darth father]

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Cree LED's do heat up, that is normal. They should be attached to a metal heat sink to absorb and radiate the heat away from the star. Most of us use copper, it looks like yours are aluminum. What resistors are on the red die? Which battery are you using? What problems besides heat on the stars are you experiencing?

I am not sure what resistors are being used. I bought the saber this way and had a problem with it so I disassembled it. I was going to reassemble it and when I checked everything before I put it back together I noticed that the aluminum heat sink was getting so hot I could not touch it. Honestly I don’t know if it was like that before I took it apart or not. I attached a photo of the resistors & the battery so you could see the color bands on them and see what kind of battery. The only other problem I am having is the white die on the led is very very dim. I believe it is bad. I have checked all the setting on the Ed card multiple times to make sure they where correct. The only thing that I did differently than the original install is I ran all my positives to the post in the recharge port and then only Ren one wire from there to the board to simplify the wiring going to the board. Would that make it heat up like it’s doing or does it not make a difference?
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[Tom Tilmon]

Those look like 1.2 ohm resistors, although its hard to tell. You can measure their resistance with a multi-meter. There should be one resistor for each red die. So you should have a total of 4: 2 on the tri cree for the main blade, and one for the quillion. Sounds like your white die is fubar. Replace the tri-cree with a new R,R,W.

[darth father]

There is two resistors the side blade negatives are on one and the negatives for the tri Cree are on one.

[Tom Tilmon]

That is wrong. Each red LED needs its own independent resistor, unless they are 2.4 ohm, and even then, I wouldn't do it that way. My guess is you have a single resistor feeding both, if I'm correct in my thinking, then you are underdriving the LEDs, because they are splitting the available V/A between them. Again, you should have a 1.2 ohm resistor on each quillion red, and 2 on the main blade tri cree. Thus, you should have 4 resistors on this build, at least. Because white is only FOC, you may get away with no resistor, but the fact you already have a blown white LED indicates otherwise. So, in this build, you should have 5 resistors, one for each red and one for white. No LED on the star should share a resistor. That is my input here.