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Thread: Attaching brass rods

  1. #11

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    I could try and find a way to make that work.
    Are (chamfered) perpendicular rods just above the pointer finger is comfortable? The ergonomics / comfort of the build are a big part of the design on this saber.
    The brass rod I have is ~5mm diameter, if that makes a difference.

  2. #12

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    Hey Lolwel21

    If you have access to a drill press with a mounted vise you could do this (Sorry for the crap drawing - I need to invest in some 3D CAD software):
    Drill two holes per brass accent (according to size of the brass rod)


    Bend a section of brass rod into a "u shape" so it will fit into the holes drilled (100 deg & 50 deg just as an example)


    This design wouldn't be as streamlined as your mock-up shows. Depending on what dia brass rod you are using it may not bend to the tight upper angle. jbkuma makes a good point about drilling on the side of the curve; if you go this route I'd recommend "spotting" it first with a small endmill to create a flat for the drill be to hit (you need a fixed vise and drill press for this). It would be hard to keep the holes within acceptable tolerance without the use of a milling machine, but with patience and time you may get it.

    Its lot of work just to get this particular look as FJK and jbkuma are pointing out - and it's none of my business but what is the driving force behind having the speaker holes located in the choke? Are you just going for a super-big resonant chamber?

    Keep us updated, I'm interested in your project.

    - Steve
    Last edited by null; 03-24-2020 at 06:25 PM.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lolwel21 View Post
    I could try and find a way to make that work.
    Are (chamfered) perpendicular rods just above the pointer finger is comfortable? The ergonomics / comfort of the build are a big part of the design on this saber.
    The brass rod I have is ~5mm diameter, if that makes a difference.
    Hey Lolwel21



    What do you mean by "(chamfered) perpendicular rods just above the finger". Can you do a little drawing? I'm a visual person & one picture is worth a thousand words

    - Steve
    Last edited by null; 03-25-2020 at 05:11 AM.

  4. #14

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    In terms of CAD software, I'm using Blender, which isn't specialized towards industrial / mechanical design, but is still really powerful and free so yeah.
    A chamfer is a flat bevel, so the arrangement I was asking about looks something like this:
    Screen Shot 2020-03-25 at 12.49.36 PM.jpg
    with this choke directly under the emitter, so the pointer finger of the forward hand would rest against those rods.

  5. #15

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    Hey Lolwel21

    Nice, I’ll check Blender out. It seems more geared to artists and graphic designers but looks fun to play with!

    That design definitely looks less comfortable; a little 5mm nipple like that would almost be an impalement hazard to the soft squishy bits of your hands if you are duelling...

    What is the reason for having the speaker holes there instead of the pommel?

    - Steve

  6. #16

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    It's so that the lightsaber will sound louder with the blade facing you, rather than louder with the blade facing away.
    If placing speaker holes up in the front turns out to be too impractical, I'll just move them back to the pommel, but it would be nice to have blade-facing speakers...
    I also just feel that the design of the hilt so far definitely looks better with some detail in that general area.

    choke designs context.jpg

    This wouldn't help the neatness of the visible joint, but would drilling a small dowel (or two) into both parts make an epoxy-based solution more viable? (maybe some 22-gauge wire sticking part way into both the hilt and the decorative rods, epoxied in with the rest of the joint)
    Last edited by Lolwel21; 03-25-2020 at 04:42 PM.

  7. #17

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    If you’re trying to put speaker holes in the choke, you should put them towards the bottom, where the sound is actually coming from.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  8. #18

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    Gotcha, I understand.

    FJK makes a good point. If you have the holes closer to the bottom of the choke it will already be projecting the sound “forward” & you could even add a piece of MHS sleeve material to shroud the holes and direct the sound forward even more.

    See the crappy drawing below...


    I think adding more complexity to the brass rod idea is only going to make it more difficult. If you are really set on this visual your best bet might be looking into some custom work from Tim @ the shop. Do you already have all the parts or is this just a pre-purchase planning session?

    - Steve

  9. #19

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    I've already got both parts, but I'm also using the brass rod for button caps and figured I might find some additional decorative use for it.
    Placing the speaker holes near the bottom of the choke sounds promising, but I'm worried about blocking it when using the lightsaber, considering I chose that choke specifically to rest my forward hand pointer finger (ergonomics-first build). Because of that, I'm worried that partially covering it with a sleeve in such a way as to protect those holes would make it uncomfortable to hold, thereby defeating the practical purpose of having such a choke in the first place. If it is in fact comfortable, that would be great to know so I don't have to give up on this fanciful, entirely unnecessary but still cool endeavor.

    Asking for a custom-machined piece sounds attractive, but as a college student I don't want to spend too much more than I already am planning to at the moment, and by the difficulty assessment I'm seeing here, that sounds like it would stretch my budget a bit. It might make for a good aspirational mod sometime in the future, though.


    If adding a sleeve there turns out to be uncomfortable, or worse yet a pinching hazard, I will probably go with a flat design (second design from the left in my previous post), because that doesn't need to hold on as strongly per square inch (and are easy to replace if I lose one) while still providing some visual interest, and fall back to pommel-projected sound.
    Going for blade-projected sound is a fun idea, but it may be one I have to leave for a (much) later build, or for a builder with much more experience than I.

  10. #20

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    Putting it where you had it, the holes will likely be blocked by the heatsink module, sooooo.....
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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