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Thread: Neopixels no longer work...

  1. #31

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    Awww bummer. Man; you’re having a real time with this aren’t you? Sorry for all your setbacks (for what it’s worth) I know how frustrating it can be.

    I’ll be watching this page for updates.

    - Steve

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Did you check to make sure the battery is fully charged first?
    I will on Monday when the charger arrives... That is my last hope before I get another set of pixel strips.

  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by null View Post
    Awww bummer. Man; you’re having a real time with this aren’t you? Sorry for all your setbacks (for what it’s worth) I know how frustrating it can be.

    I’ll be watching this page for updates.

    - Steve
    Thanks Steve, it is frustrating for sure. But it is all a learning experience.

    Jon

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by poconosjon@aol.com View Post
    I will on Monday when the charger arrives... That is my last hope before I get another set of pixel strips.
    I highly suggest either a cheap neopixel controller (they're 5 bucks) or a used NBIV/Prism as a test rig for your strips. You can rig it up so your strips can plug into so you can test their functionality before you assemble the blades. Before you give up on your current strips, try cutting out the first pixel on each strip, to see if you can get either one of them functioning. Did you trim the strips? Some people trim 5050 strips to make them narrower, but on some 5050 strips, trimming can be fatal. Check each strip independently on a controller or other board for functionality, then once both strips are working independently, wire them together put them in your diffusion of choice, then test them again. Then once those tests pass, assemble the blade. Blade building can be frustrating.

    My Prism test rig is in this video:



    Tom

    "Let the past die."

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    I highly suggest either a cheap neopixel controller (they're 5 bucks) or a used NBIV/Prism as a test rig for your strips. You can rig it up so your strips can plug into so you can test their functionality before you assemble the blades. Before you give up on your current strips, try cutting out the first pixel on each strip, to see if you can get either one of them functioning. Did you trim the strips? Some people trim 5050 strips to make them narrower, but on some 5050 strips, trimming can be fatal. Check each strip independently on a controller or other board for functionality, then once both strips are working independently, wire them together put them in your diffusion of choice, then test them again. Then once those tests pass, assemble the blade. Blade building can be frustrating.

    My Prism test rig is in this video:



    Tom
    Tom,

    Thank you for the response... When looking at your video, I remembered that I own a Raspberry Pi which is currently being used as a DVR for a different project. I am going to use that to test the strips... I was so focused on the battery that I didn't stop to think about testing the strips themselves until now... Once I get the charger on Monday and can charge the battery, I will be able to test the strips properly... I will keep you all posted.

    Thanks again,
    Jon
    Last edited by poconosjon@aol.com; 03-28-2020 at 09:54 AM.

  6. #36

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    Another thought occurred to me as I was doing more research... What gauge wire should I be using to power the board and strips? I was looking and for up to 11 amps of current, it recommends 20awg. I am going to beef up the Wires because I think I am using either 22 or 24awg but I have to verify. I know I am not using 20awg though.

    Thoughts?
    Jon

  7. #37

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    22 gauge is fine.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  8. #38

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    Ok so here is the big update... I tested the 2 strips using a raspberry pi and test code I downloaded. On 1 strip the 1st 8 pixels light up and go through the test. The 2nd strip I get nothing. So it looks like I may have bad pixels in my strip. I also checked to see what guage wire I am using g and it looks like 24awg for the connections on the CFX board and a mix of 22 and 24 for the switches and connections from the hilt side adapter to the board and power. I am going to replace all of the wire with 22awg and buy 2 new strips as I dont really feel like trying to separate them to test and find the bad pixels... I will test the new ones prior to doing anything this time, now that I have a good method to do so. Thanks to everyone for their help and I will post another update when I get the new set and test...

    Thanks again
    Jon

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by poconosjon@aol.com View Post
    Ok so here is the big update... I tested the 2 strips using a raspberry pi and test code I downloaded. On 1 strip the 1st 8 pixels light up and go through the test. The 2nd strip I get nothing. So it looks like I may have bad pixels in my strip. I also checked to see what guage wire I am using g and it looks like 24awg for the connections on the CFX board and a mix of 22 and 24 for the switches and connections from the hilt side adapter to the board and power. I am going to replace all of the wire with 22awg and buy 2 new strips as I dont really feel like trying to separate them to test and find the bad pixels... I will test the new ones prior to doing anything this time, now that I have a good method to do so. Thanks to everyone for their help and I will post another update when I get the new set and test...

    Thanks again
    Jon
    The only components you need heavy gauge wire (22) is for battery, RCP, Cutoffs, and any Neopixel feed (positive and negative). YOu can use smaller gauge wire 28 or 30 for your tactile switches, accents, neopixel data, and speaker. No need for large mess where you don't need it. Too many large wires can create problems. So all your power supply wires from battery to neopixels and battery to rcp and any cutoff switch that may carry the full amp load. Tactile switches and speakers won't be carrying that full amp load that the blade will see. Neopixel strips can be finicky, on the strip that isn't working, try cutting out the first pixel, re-attach your test board to the new pads, and test the strip again. On your other strip that only lights up 8 pixels, first of all make sure your raspberry pi is sending a signal for the number of pixels in your strip (that will be in your strip length defines in your sketch), and if those are correct, then cut out the first pixel that isn't working, attach your wires to the new pads, and test the remaining strip. YOu can attach the cutoff bit to the tip of the blade after you determine that the strips function. You know at least the first 8j pixels are ok, now to check the rest.

    TOm

    "Let the past die."

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    The only components you need heavy gauge wire (22) is for battery, RCP, Cutoffs, and any Neopixel feed (positive and negative). YOu can use smaller gauge wire 28 or 30 for your tactile switches, accents, neopixel data, and speaker. No need for large mess where you don't need it. Too many large wires can create problems. So all your power supply wires from battery to neopixels and battery to rcp and any cutoff switch that may carry the full amp load. Tactile switches and speakers won't be carrying that full amp load that the blade will see. Neopixel strips can be finicky, on the strip that isn't working, try cutting out the first pixel, re-attach your test board to the new pads, and test the strip again. On your other strip that only lights up 8 pixels, first of all make sure your raspberry pi is sending a signal for the number of pixels in your strip (that will be in your strip length defines in your sketch), and if those are correct, then cut out the first pixel that isn't working, attach your wires to the new pads, and test the remaining strip. YOu can attach the cutoff bit to the tip of the blade after you determine that the strips function. You know at least the first 8j pixels are ok, now to check the rest.

    TOm
    Tom,

    Thank you for clarifying the wiring requirements. I was going to leave the switches alone because I have them hooked up with the 2 wire quick connectors they sell here at TCSS. https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2...?ItemId=564475 I actually am going to re-wire the recharge port and other power connections with 20awg to make sure the current is more than sufficient. The space difference between 22 and 20 is negligible so I should be OK. As far as "fixing/testing the strips" I will when I have some time to pull them apart from each other as they were fully assembled in the blade when it was working in the very beginning. For now I have ordered and received 2 new strips which I will test thoroughly before assembling again... The code should be correct in the PI but I will double check, and with the new strips this will also tell me if it is working properly.

    Thanks again for the help,
    Jon

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