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Thread: SA22C's second MHS build

  1. #1

    Default SA22C's second MHS build

    Going to document my MHS build here in this thread.

    MHS parts list:

    Pommel Style 4 (no cubes)
    2" double female extension MHSv1
    Male to male MHS V1/V2 adapter
    2" double female extension MHSv2
    Male MHSv2 to female MHSv1 adapter
    Choke style 2
    Blade holder style 21
    Bunny Ears

    Non-MHS parts list
    OneReplicas low-profile control box
    GOTH3d 0.99 Chassis parts (20mm speaker, 18650 battery, OLED/Board combo/2.1mm RC port)

    Neopixel PCB x2 (one for blade, one for chassis separation)
    Proffieboard v2.2
    20mm 3w speaker

    Everything is on order, I'll be updating this thread with paint, weathering, chassis and install.

    Right now the plan is to fix the chassis in the pommel end of the saber and unscrew at the MHSv2 female extension to have an OLED/pixel reveal and kill-key/recharge.


  2. #2

  3. #3

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    Making MHS Sabers happen right now is very impressive Matt, can't wait to see what awesomeness you come up with.

    "Let the past die."

  4. #4

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    That looks great...only question is length, looks like it could be close to 15”?

  5. #5

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    My parts have all arrived, threw everything together for a quick mockup (the ears and box have a couple dabs of superglue for testing before I drill retention screws)



    And a side-by-side comparison with the TLJ Graflex and ANH Obi


    Total length is just over 12.5 inches, which is longer than I'd like but about as short as I could make it and retain the thin neck I was going for.

  6. #6

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    I'm not a big thin neck guy, but your saber looks great.

    Some personal preference thoughts: Right before the first thin neck choke there's a hard 90 corner. Is that uncomfortable to hold? Is that where you naturally hold it when using two hands? The clamp card looks very clean, particularly the 4 dots. I like bunny ears, but I do feel like the bunny ears look out of place. Like, what fantasy purpose would they serve for that style of emitter? The pommel looks really cool and comfortable to wrap your fingers around when holding with two hands.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by SFXER001 View Post
    I'm not a big thin neck guy, but your saber looks great.

    Some personal preference thoughts: Right before the first thin neck choke there's a hard 90 corner. Is that uncomfortable to hold? Is that where you naturally hold it when using two hands? The clamp card looks very clean, particularly the 4 dots. I like bunny ears, but I do feel like the bunny ears look out of place. Like, what fantasy purpose would they serve for that style of emitter? The pommel looks really cool and comfortable to wrap your fingers around when holding with two hands.
    It's actually really nice to hold, don't find that the lip on the bottom choke digs in or anything. The bunny ears are there for asymmetrical reasons as I feel a major part of SW props is irregularity. Without the bunny ears, the saber is just a cylinder of varying thickness, but with them, all of a sudden there is something that doesn't fit, that throws off the lines and that is exactly why it's there. Its also why I mounted the control box at about 60 degrees offset from the ears rather than 90. In-universe reason for the ears: they dissipate heat.

  8. #8

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    I totally agree about the asymmetrical design. I love asymmetry in sabers and breaking up the regular shape is what makes things less "flashlighty." I also like the heat dissipation explaination. Can't wait to see the finished saber!

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    Great looking saber...BRAVO!

    Bunny ears also help prevent the hand from slipping too far forward onto the blade. In one of the earliest cutaway saber diagrams I've seen they were said to be tuning flanges for the magnetic stabilizing ring:


  10. #10

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    Final assembly:


    Moved the control box to the middle of the saber, rather than the bottom as it made the install much easier. Having the control box at the bottom made it virtually impossible to have enough room to get a USB connector to the board for programming. I tried making a low-profile extension cable but there isn't enough clearance in a 1-inch chassis to make it work. Paint wise, I stripped it after my less-than-stellar copper attempt and went for some mild weathering instead. I may still darken the MHS v2 extension with some aluminum black to give the handle some variation but as of yet undecided.

    Chassis:


    Went for an OLED install using the Goth3D .99 modular chassis range. The display/board chassis is meant for CFX but a couple daubs of glue ensure that the slightly smaller Proffie stays where it should. I didn't have enough room to run pixels under the board like I had hoped, so no accent LEDs in this build. I chopped up the battery holder chassis into two parts, using one to secure the battery under the switch section and provide a space for a set screw (hidden under the control box.) The other section I modified to use as a spacer so I had room for a right-angle USB cord. Then the standard 2.1 mm recharge port and 20mm speaker housing round out the chassis. I had a devil of a time getting the damn thing to sick on the metal rods and it all ended up just slightly misaligned, making it a bit of a tight fit but not bad enough that I had to tear it down and start again. Saber is also utilizing TCSS 11-pin pixel connector in the emitter, held in place using a 6-32 set screw.

    Blade plug is a modified MPP style with 8 pixels for shine-through.


    Overall I'm really happy with the design, I think it looks a bit Old-Republic-y and I really like the feel of it, very comfortable to hold. I can't say enough nice things about the OneReplicas control box, it's an easy install and the switches always feel nice and clicky.

    Now the hard part begins: building blade styles and selecting the 'default' font.

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