10 watt RGB... (BUSTED!!!)

[Marsupial]

the internal diagram was drawn in the lower right-hand part of page 1 of those specs sheets.

I hope they have an alternate model of this, because I fail to see the point of RGB used that way.
but I believe their design was intended for a 3 intensity led system (3-6-9 leds of the same color) and the RGB is just a gizmo they came with.

[Dregan]

Nope. This is the only RGB they make.

And, when I called about optics, they said, "under development"

I suspect that the RGB is a spinoff of the monochromatic ones, not a seperate product. Hence the same internal wiring diagram.

Great potential. Stupid execution.

[neophyl]

Oh thats a definate RGB led. You can still drive any seperate colour you just have to wire it up differently.

In practical terms to use it as a multicolour changing led you would need to build a special driver.

With the way your connecting it you are using the common cathode and then supplying power to the anodes, of course that lights up either 1, 2 or 3 complete rows.

If for example you only wanted to light up the middle row then you would wire positive up to the '6 chips row' and wire neagtive up to the '3 chips row'. Power would then only flow through the middle row.

Thats what I mean about building a special driver, it would have to be capable of switching both positive and negative positions around on all 4 pins (well positive to the 3 rows and negative to the common and 3 and 6 row pins).

Pretty straightforward with a microcontroller and 7 mosfet transistors rated for the load.

[Dregan]

If that's the case, then there might yet be hope for this thing.

I still think it's a little large for a saber, but the mood light and auto fixtures I make could sure benefit from this.

On that note, i finished my first motorcycle install this weekend. Had to weatherproof everything, but (even if I do say so myslef) it's a very good-looking install.

[Marsupial]

yeah, technically... connecting between 2 of the side tabs (let say, between row 1 and 2 instead of common and row 2) should light what's in-between...

however, driving will be different then simply applying current to separate channels, as mentioned by neophil. That can prove to be interesting.

this being said, we need to think that at 1.76" large with the tabs (widest diagonal almost 2.5 inch) it might be something we won't want to use for sabers.

[Lord Maul]

it might work size wise, if you were to have a bubble so to speak in the emitter where it would sit. that would look cool if you did it right and make the diameter big enough for the led