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Thread: Circumference of MHS Parts

  1. #1

    Default Circumference of MHS Parts

    Anybody know the exact outer circumference of regular MHS Parts (just like the basic extensions without any milling? I've tried measuring one, and got something around 4.56 inches, but I was curious if anyone had a more exact measurement.
    My University has a laser etcher that I plan on using to etch some designs on the parts, and I only have a few test parts.

  2. #2

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    Assuming it's a standard MHS v1 and there are no grooves then 1.45" × 3.14 = 4.553"

    So your measurement is pretty close...

    If you are really trying to be super precise use a micrometer to measure the outer diameter of said piece.

    Then just remember circumference = diameter × pi (3.14....I don't have the symbol on my mobile)

    Theoretically, if you were to cut a piece of paper exactly 4.553" wide and wrap it around the MHS part, the edges should meet perfectly, or very, very, very near to it. Mind you, the paper thickness could affect it, (actually as I am thinking about it now you would need to factor the thickness of paper to add to the diameter??) but, I digress...you get the idea.

    This little tip could actually come in very handy if someone were wanting to sketch out some salt water etching designs in 2d, or with a stencil cutter. L×W....W=Dia x Pi.

  3. #3

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    I didn't think about paper thickness. In fact I used an index card that I wrapped around the piece to do the initial measurement, which turned out not quite right... probably because the index card is pretty thick.

    Thanks for the help!

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    Digital Calipers are your friend! They are inexpensive and invaluable.

  6. #6

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    Hell yes they are! Mine are from my reloading gear I disassembled over two years ago before moving from the PNW to the east coast.

    Oh yea, Angel...whatever you wrap your hilt with for design planning measure the thickness of said medium, multiply by 2 and add that to MHS part circumference! My initial response to you was end of my day about to fall asleep. Technically speaking, the formula I mentioned above applies to inner diameter as well as outer diameter. If you can visualize splitting one side of the tube and laying it out flat in 2D, the edges which would represent the thickness of said tube would be angled.

    Total aside TBH, I hated, half paid attention and barely passed geometry in my youth...I have been relearning it all recently for some reason LOL...

    THAT BEING SAID, seriously question, test and challenge my advice. HAHA!

  7. #7

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    I'm in the same boat. Math classes were my most dreaded... the irony is that now I only need geometry for things I enjoy.

    Thanks for the help!

    Unfortunately, it seems the laser printer I have access to doesn't quite work on MHS parts... the aluminum is too reflective for the laser to etch on. On to my backup plan... Acid!

  8. #8

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    Acid? Try salt water etching. Cut out your lettering on vinyl...those cricket cutters. Once the part is prepped the etch is relatively quick.

  9. #9

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    Yeah I might try that. I'd seen some different etching techniques, salt water and vinegar being one, a weak acidic solution with some electricity added to kickstart the process. Haven't decided on that, Copper Sulfate Mordant, or Ferric Chloride as of yet. The etches I've seen on the last two looked a bit cooler to me, but thankfully my test pieces were left unscathed by the laser printer, so I'm going to try all three, likely starting with the easiest (salt water and vinegar). So far I'm enjoying the process of trial and error.

  10. #10

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    Honestly if you want to test some pieces, go to your local home depot/Lowe's. Go to the hardware section and grab some 1/8" dia. aluminum rods and a piece of 1" wide 1/4" thick bar stock....it's less than $10...cut pieces of the bar stock to practice. I followed the guide posted buy ARKM under the general hilt building using the stuff I mentioned...seriously easy

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