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Thread: Quick release color mixing and battery choice?

  1. #1

    Default Quick release color mixing and battery choice?

    Hi, I'm working on a saber and am new to incorporating electronics into my props. I want to make an indigo blade and be able to change to green. So far I'm thinking of using a rB/rB/dR tri-cree. I would also like to be able to unplug the red cree with a quick release (so I can swap in a photon green blade.) Will this complicate things and require battery swaps?


    -This is for a stunt saber, so no sound card and a 15-20 in blade. Iím trying to figure out how to wire this. I hear some people chain the LEDs to a buckpuck but I got the impression that this means a much higher voltage battery is required than if I resist each die separately. Is this the case?
    -I ask because Iíve been debating between a buckpuck or resistors and trying to decide what kind of battery I will need to be able to power the three LEDs and an accent light and be able to install a recharge port. Is the quick release dR die viable and will it change the battery required?
    -If I understand correctly, if using resistors, I can use a 3.7 Li-Ion. If I using a buckpuck, even a 7.4v Li-Ion won't be enough to power the whole tri-cree plus accent. Is this correct?



    For the specific parts I was looking at:

    -2x Royal Blue Cree Part# XPEBRY-L1-0000-00S01
    650mW Minimum Radiant Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.4v

    -1x Deep Red Cree Part# XPEEPR-L1-0000-00C01
    425 Radiant Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.5v

    -7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack

    -JST Sony Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 15A 3120mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery

  2. #2
    Jedi Padawan
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    Default

    I would ditch the buckpuck and go for resistors personally. I believe (could be wrong) you need 1 buckpuck per LED (or at least 1 per color) anyways, so resistors would be smaller for the same thing.

    Don't see an issue with being able to unplug the wiring from the Red LED separately, as long as you don't do it while power is being applied to the system...

    Would also caution with the dR vs a regular R LED; I have heard they are harder to mix with the rB's, as they produce light more on the limits of what humans can perceive. But that is just hearsay, someone who has actually done it would be able to comment on that.

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