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Thread: Neopixel recharge method?

  1. #1

    Default Neopixel recharge method?

    I looked on here, but maybe I missed it. I made a few sabers a while back- mostly with NB boards and Tri Cree- and they all have recharge ports in them. I was about to start work on a new saber and really want to do a NeoPixel. I did not see anything in the NB4 or Prizim manuals about wiring a recharge port specifically in a Neopixel blade. Is it the same process? Are there any alternative options? I was thinking due to the blade plug- and the way it connects- there might be a way to recharge through the same "interface"- the TCCS neopixel hilt and blade side adapters? Any thoughts?

  2. #2

    Default

    You can use the recharge ports, they wore up the same. The only “issue” is that there is a real question of if the JST connectors can withstand the hig amperage that a Neopixels require. Personally, I have hard wired the battery to the recharge ports.
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  3. #3

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    by hardwire I assume you mean solder and wire correct? So there is no "other" way? or method to recharge a saber like this? nothing through the hilt and blade side neopixel adapters right?

  4. #4

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    Hilt and blade side Neopixel adaptors? I though we were discussing recharging the battery.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

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    yeah- a long while back I thought I saw somewhere where you could charge the battery through a connection to the hilt side of the neopixel adapter? you remove the blade- and plug in a recharger with a modified "blade side" plug. easy peasy- no need for a recharge port. was I having delusions of grandeur?

  6. #6

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    I think may be suffering some residual carbon poisoning there, Han.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

  8. #8

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    Hey Avidgrant

    Yeah, there might be a way to do it but you’d need Erv Plecter to get back to you on that. You could shoot him an email over on his website; He’s great on customer service for any questions I’ve had.

    I can’t see any way to work it as there is no shared negative between the battery and the LED pads. The recharge port needs a shared negative to “dump” into the battery. Unless I’ve got that wrong which is entirely possible...

    Cool idea though
    - Steve

  9. #9
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    JB Kuma has charged through the blade side but I believe he used/uses aviation connectors which provide more connection points. I’ll text him to see if he can chime in.
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  10. #10

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    I have been charging and programming through the blade socket using aviation style connectors for a few years now and it is definitely my preferred method. I have also made custom PCBs that allowed the same.

    You can do it with a standard TCSS style PCB connectors with a little clever wiring and a switch:


    You need to remove the saber board from the equation or it will cause problems. In this setup the blade pulls power directly from the battery, so it will be drawing power even when it is dark. You cannot connect the blade through the board or you will not be able to charge your battery.

    Alternatively, you could modify the housing (and possibly the hilt side PCB) to cram in a connector. There are other ways you could pull it off, but they become increasingly more difficult and technical.

    Here's my recommended wiring if using aviation style connectors

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