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Thread: CFX Neopixel wiring question.

  1. #1

    Default CFX Neopixel wiring question.

    I'm currently planning out a new build with the CFX, but saw something in the manual that has me a bit confused.

    -1 / 2 cell compatibility with no “voltage-hack” required, only a solder jumper to bridge, and
    only when using ledstrips with 2 cells (+5V buck regulation needed then for the strip)

    I plan on using a dual 18650 battery setup for the increased maH capacity (and readily available from the TCSS store), does this mean a buck puck needs to be added into the wiring to regulate the voltage to 5v for the strips and if so, could someone give me a quick rundown on how it should be wired in and which puck I should be looking for.

  2. #2

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    That is also assuming that the 18650 7.4v packs in the store can even handle the current draw of neopixel without killing the protection PCB.

  3. #3

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    The 7.4V packs won’t be helpful to you. They won’t increase your runtimes, and I doubt they have the output to run Neopixel setups anyway. You were thinking of running two 18650’s in parallel (the ones in the store are run in SERIAL), which isn’t something offered in the store.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    The 7.4V packs won’t be helpful to you. They won’t increase your runtimes, and I doubt they have the output to run Neopixel setups anyway. You were thinking of running two 18650’s in parallel (the ones in the store are run in SERIAL), which isn’t something offered in the store.
    Yeah, now that I think about it you're right. Trying to avoid having to cram a 26650 battery into the hilt. Trust me, the last saber I was designing was using them and I still haven't been able to get it everything to fit well and actually sound good. the 26650 barley fits into MHS, kills any resonance ability if the battery is too close to the speaker.

    Oh well, I guess it'll be easier since I'm starting from scratch and now know how massive those batteries are. Give it it's own 3" section. Thank you FJK.
    Last edited by RavenXp; 01-03-2020 at 05:48 PM.

  5. #5

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    One of the big trade offs for Neopixel is the battery runtime. That’s why some have moved back to removable battery solutions. It also saves in the wiring a recharge port department.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  6. #6

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    If I manage to create mini reactor that can fit in a hilt, I'll be sure to share. ��

  7. #7

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    It shouldn't matter how close the battery is to the speaker, ideally the back of the speaker should be sealed off.

    I've been doing a lot of real world testing with specialized metering equipment. I recommend tuning down the brightness of your pixel blade to help. Full brightness isn't actually visibly much brighter, and makes the blade much hotter. Long run times at full power tend to result in distorted colors, this is not due to the battery output, but the relates to the pixels themselves. Optimal voltage for the pixels is around 3.8V, 5v just wastes more power as heat. (this has been long confirmed thanks to work by protonerd/Andras Kun)

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    It shouldn't matter how close the battery is to the speaker, ideally the back of the speaker should be sealed off.

    I've been doing a lot of real world testing with specialized metering equipment. I recommend tuning down the brightness of your pixel blade to help. Full brightness isn't actually visibly much brighter, and makes the blade much hotter. Long run times at full power tend to result in distorted colors, this is not due to the battery output, but the relates to the pixels themselves. Optimal voltage for the pixels is around 3.8V, 5v just wastes more power as heat. (this has been long confirmed thanks to work by protonerd/Andras Kun)
    That's good to know. I've noticed a difference in audio quality if I seal off the speaker and don't allow a resonance behind the speaker. Well, volume anyway. My last build I sealed it off because of the 26650 and the volume was cut in half as opposed to a standard tri cree setup with a single 18650 and open speaker in the same hilt body. I think I've found a workaround though that'll allow me to fit that 26650 in without sacrificing the audio volume.


    Edit: I should point out that audio is on an old PRIZM 5.1 board with one of the 28mm bass speakers, not the newer wow speakers.
    Last edited by RavenXp; 01-05-2020 at 10:54 AM.

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