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Thread: First lightsaber install, Neopixel CFX, need advice on chassis

  1. #1

    Question First lightsaber install, Neopixel CFX, need advice on chassis

    Hello everyone, this is my first post on this forum so I wish to not make a fool of myself as you hear me out if you'd be so kind. I hope this is the right section btw.

    I won't waste your time and get straight to the point; I am doing my first custom saber install (I have reasonable knowledge of wiring electronics for the most part) and I have obtained an empty hilt from an UNDISCLOSED company (my experience was fine, btw). The hilt has an I.D just over 1" (will fit a 26mm speaker). I have purchased pretty much all of my electronics from TCCS (Neopixel, CFX) excluding the battery as I dwell from Australia. I have decided on a removable 18650 as they seem to be the standard. I am wondering what the best chassis solution would be to achieve a removable battery, or honestly just a completely removable chassis would be ideal (I have about a $500 USD budget for all the internals including shipping costs). I am also making my own RGB strip blade and have most of what I need but need some guidance. My main questions are:

    1. How would I construct / what chassis do you recommend to buy for a ~1" I.D hilt for a CFX and 18650 battery (26mm or 24mm speaker. I don't mind). I would like to be able to remove the battery for charging with relative ease.

    2. Do I need a capacitor for the blade side neopixel PCB, I am using the 330ohm SMD resistor on board. I've read mixed comments about this and now I'm not even sure what value capacitor is correct or where to wire it, I have watched TCCS's YouTube videos and Rob doesn't seem to bother with a capacitor.

    3. I am purchasing a red illuminated 12mm AV switch, what would be the ideal resistor for this? The video on AV switch wiring from TCCS said that a 20mA variable resistor works best, but other people have said otherwise.

    Hope I don't burden you experts too much by these questions, I understand if they are too vague or open ended. Beginner's tend to not understand the complexities beyond their ambiguous questions. I have committed to a relatively difficult project as I will be doing mechatronics down the road so there's no going back now. Thanks anyway.

  2. #2

    Default

    Welcome to the Forums.

    1. While I suspect I know which company you are referring to, I’m not 100% positive. You’ll very likely need some type of 3D printed system for it. Google will be your friend.

    2. Most everyone puts the resistor in the blade side of the PCB (it’s kind of an unofficial standard). Some were using capacitors for underpowered batteries as I recall, but if you use a 15Amp 3.7V battery, you should be fine, assuming you’re using two pixel strips.

    3. Fortunately (for you) I did write a tutorial that covers that... http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you very much for the quick response and I appreciate the tutorial. Haha. I'll probably look at a 3D printed chassis or perhaps make my own simple build with pvc from a hardware store, seems to be the best option. And I have access to a wholesaler for batteries and such so I might buy a few high powered cells. Cheers.

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