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Thread: My Roman Prop - SCW - Nano Biscotte NB v4 - NeoPixel Build

  1. #21
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    I wasn't going to throw them out. I will definitely repurpose them in some fashion, even just to use as a test blade build.

    After toying/scraping the pad I've managed to get a good joint of solder, however, this has broken through the pads, so the solder joint is connected to the edges of the pad. Essentially, I've made a hole in the pad and filled it with solder. Although it's not a great joint it has got a connection, I tested it with a battery and the first pixel lights up, so I beleve (luckily) i've fixed it lol. At least as a test connection. I'll see how things go.

  2. #22
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    So, got some more wiring done, here you can see my massacre of the pad lol



    Not the smoothest soldering you'll ever see.



    But the blade is done (although untested)


  3. #23

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    I see you followed the suggested method on wiring your blade. My blades only have 3 wires coming off both strips: Positive(22ga), NEgative(22ga), and Data(26ga). I basically use a modified method from Khal. Here is his video:



    Then I have another video of my blade building in next post.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #24

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    Here is my take on blade building, this was a 7/8" blade:


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  5. #25
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Yes, I did watch both of those videos prior to doing my work, but both the Shtok connector manual showed 2 pos/neg wires, so I stuck to that, and then I just decided to stick with 2 for data as well.

    Again, it's a learning process for me, and I guess I'll see how it works once I'm in a position to test my blade lol

  6. #26
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    I've started to wire some of the components individually, before connecting to the board, but I wanted to ask the community if they know of any posts/forums that discuss which wires/connections can be spliced or whether all of them should be connected to the NB pads?

    Does it matter? As long as the connections go to the correct pad, it will still work?

  7. #27

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    If I have multiple wires going to the same pad, typically I splice them together before the board, and run a pigtail from that joint to the board so Only a single wire goes to the board for common components. Heat shrunk of course.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  8. #28
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Perfect thank you. I'm not even sure my wiring will work lol. But that answers a big question of mine. I really appreciate all your advice and help.

  9. #29
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Three pin switch (Aux, Act & Gnd) is what I have to wire up, am I correct in thinking it should be Act to Act on Board (obviously) and both Aux & Gnd to the Negative on Board?

  10. #30

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    3 pin switch? Can you link it in TCSS store. You need momentary switches for Aux and power, and you should have separate switches, 2 of them. Each switch, if not illuminated should have 2 poles. One switch lead, and one to GND.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

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