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Thread: My Roman Prop - SCW - Nano Biscotte NB v4 - NeoPixel Build

  1. #1
    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Default My Roman Prop - SCW - Nano Biscotte NB v4 - NeoPixel Build

    Good Afternoon All,

    Thank you for taking a moment to cast your eye over what I have to offer.

    As the Title suggests, I am endeavouring to put together the following:

    Roman Props MK1
    SCW Chassis
    SCW NXPL Connector
    NeoPixel (Dual Strip) Blade
    Nano Biscotte Board
    & RGB LED Accent

    I'm fumbling along nicely so far, and I'm reaching the point where I feel just about ready to begin putting everything together, however, I doubtedly have some issues with my schematic, so I thought I'd start this build thread with a demonstration of what I'll be putting together (at least how I envision it going together)





    I'm no electronics expert, this is my first project, but even before starting the construction, I know this won't be my last. So, let me know what you think, be gentle
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    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    I'm presuming that no one can see an obvious failing in my schematic? I will admit I'm shocked but pleased

    I didn't realize I hadn't bought any 470ohm's so I'm waiting on those, and hopefully, I'll be able to start work as soon as they arrive.

  3. #3

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    Dmitry's adapters have onboard spaces for the 470 ohm 0603smd resistors. Not familiar with the RGB driver, but I do use RGB LEDs on Proffie with great blade matching effects, including the cool blade effects. They match well in the chamber with a rgb led.

    "Let the past die."

  4. #4

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    PS, on your pixel and battery feeds, 22 ga will carry the amp load better. 26 is too small of a ga wire unless you double it. It'll still work, but you'll get diminished brightness, and perhaps even a blade that is less bright at the tip than the base, because you can't deliver enough amps to your strips.

    "Let the past die."

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    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Hi Tom, thanks for your advice. I actually took the wiring suggestion from Dimitri's NXPL connector manual, where he suggests using 26 AWG for dual strips in parallel. Now, there is a high chance I've misunderstood what he meant by that, so I will have to message him on Facebook to check.

    The pages I mean is below. (forgive my noobness, I'm learning from scratch )



    &

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    Last edited by Jukesie; 10-07-2019 at 04:57 AM.

  6. #6

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    26 ga parallel for your power and negative feeds should be sufficient. When I said double it, that was a meathead way of saying parallel. Dmitry's hilt adapters have a slot for your blade resistor, the small SMD resistor, but if you're new to soldering, you may not want to try those. You can just use a standard resistor for your blade data an inline (through hole) resistor. I haven't checked the instructions on Shtok's connector to see if you need to bridge the spot on the hilt side PCB for main blade data. I've used one of these in a saber, but it was from his first run, so I don't want to steer you wrong there. Dmitry is definitely the guy to ask about his connectors.

    Good luck on your build.

    TOm

    "Let the past die."

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    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Thank you, Tom, you've been a great help. I'm glad to get some feedback on my diagram and prospective build. I'm happy that there aren't any screaming errors (or too many lol)

    I am daunted with the soldering, but I want to learn and there are some great tutorials on how to get it done. "Famous Last Words" I should be alright

    Thanks again Tom and I'll keep you posted.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jukesie View Post
    Thank you, Tom, you've been a great help. I'm glad to get some feedback on my diagram and prospective build. I'm happy that there aren't any screaming errors (or too many lol)

    I am daunted with the soldering, but I want to learn and there are some great tutorials on how to get it done. "Famous Last Words" I should be alright

    Thanks again Tom and I'll keep you posted.
    PS, don't forget to resistor your common anode RGB LED for full voltage, unless that board you're using has onboard regulators.

    "Let the past die."

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    Board Lurker Jukesie's Avatar
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    Ah, now that is a good point, I had the Dyna-Ohm resistor on the dataline, (that's cobbled together through the NB manual examples and other online diagrams)

    Should I put that on the positive instead of the L3 line, or should I have two, one on each?

  10. #10

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    I'm not familiar with the board you're using between the NBIV and the RGB LED; however, typically you will need to resistor each leg of the LED for the associated die. You have to look up the forward voltage, and power supply for that particular LED, and then each leg of the common anode LED needs the appropriate resistor. I was thinking from memory red is about 80 ohms, green and blue were around 30 ohms or so. But do the calculations to be sure. I use 1w resistors on these legs to save space, but yeah, if you don't resistor the LED, 3.7 volts will blow it. Each cathode leg on your LED is connected to a specific color of that RGB LED. Usually the leg closest and outboard to your anode (longest leg) will be red, then green on the other side, then blue on the outside. YOu can test by connecting the anode to battery positive. THen clip a 80ohm resistor on the negative battery alligator clip, and touch to each cathode leg to expose the colors they drive.

    Now, this board you're using, may regulate the current to the RGB LED, but I don't know anything about it.

    TOm

    "Let the past die."

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