Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: First Build

  1. #1

    Default First Build

    Well, technically it isn't my "first" build. That was a Home depot special that I was rather proud of back in the day. And my second was an MR Mace Windu Conversion. But this is my first LED saber from scratch.

    I hope I calculated my resistors correctly. I have watched so many videos and read so many posts and websites about Ohm's law my head is swimming.

    My electronics:
    Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
    Green: 1000mA = 3.7v
    White: 1000mA = 3.15v
    Li-Ion 18650 3.7V (rounded up to 4v)

    Green
    R = (4 - 3.7)/1 ----> 0.3/1 ----> 0.3 ohm
    P = 0.3 x 1^2 ----> 0.3 w

    White
    R = (4 - 3.15)/1 ----> 0.85/1 ----> 0.85 ohm
    P = 0.85 x 1^2 ----> 0.85 w

    Am I doing that right?

    For the green, I was going to use the .3ohm 1w resistor, but one of the tutorial videos by Rob, he said he always goes with a 3w resistor so I opted for the .5ohm 3w on each green LED.

    Does the white FoC even need a resistor since it is only ever on momentarily? If i stick with always using a 3w resistor, would a 1.2ohm 3w work?

  2. #2
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1,756
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    There's no need to round up on your battery. They charge to 4.2 but drop to 3.7 very quickly. You can get away with a minimal resistor on the greens or dare I say, skip it and use the drive settings if you're using a plecter board.

    White resistance is .55. If thats your flash on clash led then you can get away with the .5 resistor or play it safe with the 1 ohm.
    –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– ––––––––

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm using a NBv.4 if that helps.

    So I should be OK with the .5ohm 3w on all three LED, then.

  4. #4
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1,756
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Yeah it should be fine. If you do want to save room you can change the drive on the greens to say 980 and skip the resistors. But thats totally up to you.
    –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– ––––––––

  5. #5

    Default

    Too late. They're soldered.


  6. #6

    Default

    So I have completed my first build. Rather than start a new thread, I figured I would just add on to this one.

    I ordered a ton of parts after watching some excellent TCSS tutorial videos on YouTube.





    Following the tutorial I wired everything up. Because I was following the video tutorial, I only used resistors on my green LED's. After reading several discussions here, I added the resistor to all three LED's for my final build.



    I wired everything up without a hilt first just to make sure I was doing it correctly to help my understand what goes where and why. To my astonishment, it all worked the first time!



    Drilling and taping the holes for the blade retention screw and covertec clip went off without a hitch.



    Likewise, I was pretty amazed how easy the chassis was to build. I can't give enough praise to the awesome tutorials and posts here that make building a saber so fun.



    I got everything soldered up and tightened down with no difficulty. It almost looks professionally done!



    That first time you power up a lightsaber you build is a magical moment.



    Let's see how long it take me to cut my hand off!



    Thank you to all the people here who take the time to answer questions and post tutorials. You are the ones that make this so enjoyable.

  7. #7

    Default

    Nice work.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Nice work.
    Thank you!

  9. #9
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    1,756
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default

    Congrats. Good job. Looks better than a lot of other firsts, or thirds, or twentieths.

    Now the question is how soon until you make another
    –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– ––––––––

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    Congrats. Good job. Looks better than a lot of other firsts, or thirds, or twentieths.

    Now the question is how soon until you make another
    Pretty sure I have been bitten by the saber building bug. I already have some of the parts in hand as well as an order pending at TCSS for my next lightsaber. It will be a neopixel style. I've already been studying others builds and watching copious amounts of videos. I'll also be at Savi's Workshop next weekend to build a lightsaber. Though I don't think that one counts.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •