Anyone tried the Z-led P4's ?

[Dregan]

DealExtreme is a good dealer. I've bought a lot of stuff from him. Always a good experience.

He also posts @ candlepowerforums. Nice guy.

[Marsupial]

Thanks a lot for the info dragan.

[Novastar]

That would be awesome if they had more than white in the higher output ranges...

unless I'm missing something??

[Marsupial]

color lee filters.


if you have 100 lumens, and the filter leaves 80% throug, you still have about 80 lumens. ^_^ in your choice of color.

[neophyl]

Doesnt quite work like that though.

If for example you put a red filter on a white led you blockout everything but the red naturally. Unfortunately the red component only makes up about 1/3rd of the output so you get around 30 lumens. Id compare it to a 1w red really. Some combinations you dont lose much though and the ability to change it is great.

If you want a specific colour that already exists in an led though go for that instead.

[Novastar]

Totally agreed with Phil on this one (dang Phil... you KNOW YOUR STUFF left and right!!!)...

Light wavelengths are just that--wavelengths... they're not digital! Your eyes don't see *EXACTLY* just one nm measurement... they see several, with one particular wavelength (or a few that are super close in nm) as the MOST dominant.

For example, for... let's say a run-o'-da'-mill Cyan, whatever that means (middle bin???):

5% @ 520nm
10% @ 515nm
15% @ 510nm
33% -- dominant light you see, @ 502 - 507nm
15% @ 498nm
10% @ 495nm
5% @ 490nm

These are approximations, naturally. The point is--what Phil is saying is true. A filter would (most likely) cut out the "fringe" portions due to the nature of a filter. And you'd have more like this:

3% @ 510nm
30% -- dominant light you see, @ 502 - 507nm
3% @ 498nm

These are approximations, naturally.

However, I SUPPOSE you could... like... get *just* the right filter and make little holes... or... something... I don't know!!!

All I know is that if you MUST use a filter--you should make it as transparent as possible. In other words, like a tinted contact for an eye.

This is best if you simply want to just slightly tweak the color in one direction or another. Otherwise, leave it alone and try buying another LED later on--you might get lucky and get the bin you "want".

[Marsupial]

Still, if they have high ennough white output, and you add a filter, you might gain in luminosity compared to a lesser output colored led.

which is why its not so much a downer that they don't have colored ones yet.


Phil, did you receive your P4? we're eager to hear about them.

[Novastar]

That is a good point Mars... considering what Phil said--since black is simply the absence of most all "visual" colors... white being the presence of most all of them...

Still... I would like to see some technical data regarding whites + color filter... and then some colored LED where the white +filter "wins out".

I think it would literally have to be a very detailed, super-precise amount of work to "dial it in" all pimp and shizzle, heheheh

[Marsupial]

Well, white + filters is what is used on stage. They don't own colored bulbs, just white ones and a bunch of filters. The samples we can get are actually smaller versions of the ones used for stage lights.

The question is mainly "how much luminosity remains after the filter".

[neophyl]

Sorry its taken so long to report on the Seoul P4. I got them just before the weekend but we hve a big event this weekend that Ive been doing stuff for.

Anyway I also wanted to put it in a sabre for a proper test.

Ok test sabres are as follows. Sabre A has a white K2, rank U (130lm), its driven my Erv's crystal focus board.

Sabre B is the new one with the Seoul P4 rank U star installed. Identical optics to sabre A (5 degree). Rated at 240lm. Driven by a konlux driver at 1000ma.

Wish I could get some decent pics but I cant. First impressions is that yep its brighter thn the K2. But NOT 110lm brighter. As an alternative though at a cheaper price its great. Its also brighter at less current than the K2 (see pic towards end of post).

Heres where things get a bit complicated though. I started putting various filters in line with a blade to see what things look like.

Now I dont have the Lee filters book yet as they sent me the wrong one grrrr. Anyway I do have primary green, red and blue as well as orange and yellow lee filters from my old disco lighting days. I also have the assortment thats sold in the shop.

Putting a blue filter in the P4 gives a really nice pale blue thats brighter than the K2's blue.
The Red filter gives very similar results between the 2.
Yellow, prefer the P4 as its a brighter yellow, same with the orange.
Green filter. Heres where it gets weird. The K2 even at 1A puts out a better more 'green' blade than the P4. The P4's is more of a pale apple colour really compered to the green of the K2. Pity really as I usually stick green filter in my sabre.

The purple filter from the shop the K2 gives a 'better' purple as the P4's is a bit lavender in comparison. Brighter though. I want a better purple filter which is why Ive been after the Lee book.

Anyway I upped the current on the K2 to 1.3 amps (thanks Erv, makes it so much easier )

This is the comparison :-



as you can see the P4 still appears a bit brighter but not by much. When both running at 1A theres more of a difference.

In conclusion Id generally go for the P4, its just brighter. Also its pretty bright even at 350ma so I think its a good replacement for those setups with limited current drive.

btw sabre B (the new one) looks like this :-


which makes having the brightest white led pretty important doesnt it