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Thread: Anyone tried the Z-led P4's ?

  1. #21

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    Thanks for the review!!!

    2 questions tough.

    how does the optics work. Same optics as normal stars?

    also...
    Quote Originally Posted by neophyl
    Also its pretty bright even at 350ma so I think its a good replacement for those setups with limited current drive.
    let say I have 2 of the old corbin 1W drivers, should I think about changing my star/Os for U-bin P4s?
    I have a red-orange, an amber and a green star/o.

    (maybe I should do a run test myself..?)


    nice new hilt BTW
    -Mars

    Embrace the luxeon side of the Force... to bring light, into lightsabers

  2. #22

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    The optics were 'standard' ones designed for a 3 or 5w luxeon star. They fit to the seoul stars I got with no mods needed. The ones I use though are not quite the same as the ones in the shop. The holders are slightly different but Im 99.9% sure that the TCSS ones will fit as Ive used them in the past. Its just the ones I use now are cheaper for me to pick up in the UK.



    As for replacing your 1w leds I havent seen what they look like in person so its pretty subjective. If your happy with them Id just leave them, especially the green one as Im not impressed with the P4's green output. A high rank K2 in the specific colour should do well even at reduced current if you really wanted to change out.

    Always better to build new ones though More sabres that way lol.
    Phil Higgins


  3. #23
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    Great comparison, Phil! Thanks...

    As to the white vs white (1A P4 to 1.3A K2)... is it me or does it look like one is "warm white" while the other is more of a "true white" (with bluish tones)?

    Reminds me of that 6500K vs. 5000K thing you can do on a monitor to see warmer tones vs. "brighter".

    So do tell... is there a wavelength difference???
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
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  4. #24

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    Id definately say there was as that would account for the fact that even though brighter the P4 produces a worse looking green blade when used with the green filter I had compared to the K2. P4 was better on blue though.

    Then again if you really really want green tht bad you could just use a proper green led lol. Im going to swop out the K2 after this weekends events for my second P4 and turn my toast down to 1A which should increase the run time even more
    Phil Higgins


  5. #25
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    That's true... going from 1.3A to 1A is probably not very noticeable visually... but your saber will run longer I'd imagine.

    Mine was originally set to "58" when I got the Plecter v1.2 runtime of around 3 hours 40+ minutes. Insane!

    Now I'm setting it to "60" just to see.

    lol...

    enter Princess Bride quote:

    "NOT TO FIFTY!!!!"
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  6. #26

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    I just put one of these in a saber direct drive 4.5V with a 1ohm 2watt resistor. This is the resistor that the calculator I used came up with.

    Someone on another thread said that I should use a smaller resistor for this.

    I am wondering if this is true since I put it next to a 3W white with the same setup and I really can't tell a noticable difference between the two.

    Thoughts?
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

    "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

  7. #27
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    Hi darthdan...

    Well, in my opinion--the visual difference is ultimately the thing that matters most. After all, who cares if saber X is at 1.3A, saber Y is at 1.0A... and no one can visually TELL?

    I'll offer a guess on what the person who is telling you to use a "smaller" resistor is saying...

    They are basically trying to help you eek out every last lumen from the LED, every last bit of current from the batteries without smokin' your LED.

    But it is very simple. If you gain a 1% (or even 5%) increase in brightness.... who CARES?!?! Also, if you push your LED *TOO* far, you won't just reduce its already long lifespan... you'll kill it completely.

    To me, the only things worth seeing are differences by 25% or more. Preferably 50% or more in my thinking.

    Otherwise, the eyes simply won't tell the difference, especially under the following conditions:

    1. Differing LED colors.
    2. Differing blade lengths.
    3. Differing diffuser materials.
    4. Differing drivers (resistor, Corbin, Plecter, FX, etc.)
    5. Differing LED bin itself.
    6. Someone looking at your saber from 4+ ft. away.
    7. Someone looking at your saber from 4+ ft. away while you're using/spinning/fighting with it.

    Ultimately, it is up to you though. Getting a different resistor that gives better results (via a multimeter or whatever)... is fine! And inexpensive.

    Visually however--won't make the slightest bit of difference unless your resistor calcs are WAAAAAY off in the first place. Which it appears--yours are not.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  8. #28

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    Right, but why would a LED rated at 80 lumens and one rated at 240 lumens have the same output? It really doesn't seem like its working much past half capacity...
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

    "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

  9. #29
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    Post the spec where they claim the 240.

    I have a feeling that... they may have EMBELLISHED, lol. Which is not surprising, since methods of measuring lumens... is about as questionable (sometimes) as measuring the "fog density" of a fog machine.

    I believe even Neophyte thought the P4 was not exactly "ridiculously" brighter than a Lux III/K2/V whatever on an apples to apples thing.

    At 240 vs. 80... you're right--you would THINK you'd see a large difference. By at least 50% brighter.

    Just know this... 2x the lumens... doesn't really equate to "twice as bright". It depends on many things.

    But certainly the thing SHOULD be brighter. Are you able to measure the thing with an ammeter to determine if you're driving it near the suggested max continuous current?
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  10. #30

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    Yeah Ive got some thoughts

    Before I bought mine I checked the data sheets naturally and it stated a forward voltage of arounf 3.8v which is similar to the K2. Now all leds the forward voltage tends to increase the closer you get to its driving limit so more juice through it = higher forward voltage which for a resistor setup means less current through.

    In actuallity though the P4 I used had a Vf greater than 4v. Now transistors have a slight voltage drop, battery conectors have a slight voltage drop, heck a less than perfect solder joint can drop voltage. If your running a stock MR then the cumulative voltage drops are probably only barely enough to go over the P4's forward voltage i the first place. There will be no way you are running it at full.

    Even replacing the transistors on my MR mace for a much better one I cant get it to drive a normal 3w white properly due to the diodes that the 6 battery mace has. The mauls and other 3 battery versions though dont have those so can drive the led much better.

    I was at a troop with a friend who had an ultra converted white maul, I was using my Imperial knight sabre, also with a ultra blade in there but with a P4 driven properly by a driver. The visual difference was massive. Mine was alot brighter, at least 2x as bright although Im sure the 3w led could do better if it was properly driven.

    From your description it sounds like theres definately not enough juice getting through and with a 3xaaa mr driven solution there might not be any chance to either.
    Phil Higgins


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