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Thread: Black Series Vader conversion to Neopixel Prizm 5.5 (First build) Need help please.

  1. #1

    Default Black Series Vader conversion to Neopixel Prizm 5.5 (First build) Need help please.

    Hey all.

    Been watching various forum posts for a while.
    Still stumbling around trying to figure things out.

    I have begun to complete what parts I am confident enough with such as the PCB connector and pins, speaker and power connections. So in the middle of the build until I get some help to complete the parts I am stuck on. I really want to avoid doing permanent damaging anything.

    I have a few questions if I may.

    1. Can I get away with keeping the same latching switch in the clamp to ignite my lightsaber? Looking to hide a 6mm tactile momentary inside the bulb release for my AUX with a bit of modification work to the hilt and TCSS conversion kit blade holder?

    2. Do I connect the Two negatives and positives from the PCB connector to the L2 and L1 only and ignore the L3?

    I appreciate any help. I even bought a soldering iron and Dremel for this project so anxious to get it done and impress my nieces and nephews who I have slowly been turning to the darkside....lol

    Thank you in advance,

    Steven

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackcowl View Post
    Hey all.

    Been watching various forum posts for a while.
    Still stumbling around trying to figure things out.

    I have begun to complete what parts I am confident enough with such as the PCB connector and pins, speaker and power connections. So in the middle of the build until I get some help to complete the parts I am stuck on. I really want to avoid doing permanent damaging anything.

    I have a few questions if I may.

    1. Can I get away with keeping the same latching switch in the clamp to ignite my lightsaber? Looking to hide a 6mm tactile momentary inside the bulb release for my AUX with a bit of modification work to the hilt and TCSS conversion kit blade holder?

    2. Do I connect the Two negatives and positives from the PCB connector to the L2 and L1 only and ignore the L3?

    I appreciate any help. I even bought a soldering iron and Dremel for this project so anxious to get it done and impress my nieces and nephews who I have slowly been turning to the darkside....lol

    Thank you in advance,

    Steven
    My mistake on question 2. Apologies on the mistake.

    2. Do i connect the two negatives to L2 and L1, ignore the L3 and connect the 2 positives to S+ as well as the positive at S+ to the positive of the battery? So there are 3 wires at S+?

    Really struggling and desperate for help!

    Also bump for a response. Happy to answer any questions to help me finally finish my first lightsaber!

  3. #3

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    Bump to convert views into a response...

  4. #4

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    Well with lack of any contrary opinions, I proceeded with the wiring/install.

    I have not done anything with the cards and settings yet. Wanted to make sure the circuit all works first.

    I bought a Vader Vault pixel blade to be run by the Prizm 5.5 board.
    I used this wiring diagram as a guide.

    circuit.jpg

    I connected the battery and got a boot sound but a cyclical beep due to not changing the settings on the latching switch yet so acted like I was continually pressing the button I guess. I did not get any ignition of the blade though.

    I need help please!!

    1. Does the Prizm 5.5 require the pads to be bridged next to the LS data line? Wasn't sure if this was a change between the 5.1 and 5.5.
    2. Does it matter which of the two negative lines connect to L2/L1 or L1/L2?

    Finally 3. Am I posting for help in the right place or forum or is there a better resource to ask?

    Appreciate any help.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackcowl View Post
    Well with lack of any contrary opinions, I proceeded with the wiring/install.

    I have not done anything with the cards and settings yet. Wanted to make sure the circuit all works first.

    I bought a Vader Vault pixel blade to be run by the Prizm 5.5 board.
    I used this wiring diagram as a guide.

    circuit.jpg

    I connected the battery and got a boot sound but a cyclical beep due to not changing the settings on the latching switch yet so acted like I was continually pressing the button I guess. I did not get any ignition of the blade though.

    I need help please!!

    1. Does the Prizm 5.5 require the pads to be bridged next to the LS data line? Wasn't sure if this was a change between the 5.1 and 5.5.
    2. Does it matter which of the two negative lines connect to L2/L1 or L1/L2?

    Finally 3. Am I posting for help in the right place or forum or is there a better resource to ask?

    Appreciate any help.
    Update is that it ignited. Its a white like a wave effect from the bottom of the blade but the sounds are all unstable. AUX switch doesn't seem to respond at all.

    Obviously with no one able to help. Anyone can direct me to where I should ask for help sorting my issues getting this saber to work?

    I am using the original Black Series latching switch as the Prizm 5.5 is supposed to support it right? Connected both the momentary switch AUX switch and the latching igniter switch negatives to a single wire to the switch GND.

    I altered the volume since I scared the crap out of myself and my household at 11:30 at night. Changed the LED setting to 144. In the override.txt file.
    No idea how to fix my problem.

    Desperate now! Was asking before to attempt to avoid stuck issues to no avail.

    Any fixes or directions on where to ask will be great!

  6. #6

    Default

    OK I hope someone reads and post on this. I cant get a post reply anywhere at least reply, someone, anyone where I can get help!!@! At least I am getting views....



    I have a problem with either the Prizm 5.5 Config and Override or both so anyone can post theirs for me for optimal Vader blade settings, Kylo Ren's and even Anakin's would be fantastic!!!*



    My saber seems have an issue with a Switch setting for the AUX or the wiring of it as the system keeps cycling through the fonts. My ACTIVATION/IGNITION switch will still turn on and off the blade though. My negatives are both connected independently to a shared single GND and the other is on the ACTIVATION pad and AUX on the AUX pad.



    I am so close but cant get it. Was eventually able to stumble it out for other problems even though it took a few weeks in total*to find a starting point. Cant find anything on this problem yet. It is making a project that is a couple of hours at most into days now weeks...

  7. #7

    Default

    Got help elsewhere. Thanks anyway.

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