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Thread: Nano Bisc. V4 activation issues

  1. #1

    Default Nano Bisc. V4 activation issues

    Hello,

    I recently soldered up a Nano Bisc V4 to make sure everything is wired correctly. On the first power on, everything worked fine (power up sound when removing kill key, and LED+sound when activated) for a few seconds before it suddenly shut off.

    Now, every time I remove the kill key and activate the saber, the LED turns on, increases in brightness for a couple of seconds, and then the speaker makes some crackling pop noise and the LED turns off. I'm guessing I may have somehow shorted something, but I don't know what.

    Pics of the wiring: https://imgur.com/a/xnkXfhp

    Thank you,

  2. #2

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    1. Did you make sure the battery is fully charged?

    2. Please show a close up of the wiring on the board.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    1. Did you make sure the battery is fully charged?
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    2. Please show a close up of the wiring on the board.
    I did, there's an Imgur link in the OP.

  4. #4

    Default

    No offense, but for being outside of the hilt, those wires are a mess. I can’t tell where your activation negative is going...should be to the board negative. The symptoms seem to be activation related to me.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by scott View Post
    No offense, but for being outside of the hilt, those wires are a mess. I can’t tell where your activation negative is going...should be to the board negative. The symptoms seem to be activation related to me.
    It's not supposed to be pretty, as it's just making sure that I actually know what I'm doing.

    I'm not sure what you mean by activation negative. If you mean the common pin of the switch, that's going to the activation pad. Board negative is tied to both the normally open pin on the switch and the S/C pin on the recharge port.

  6. #6

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    It’s a little hard to see what’s going on, but I’d start with taking the accent pad for the power indicator off the switch including both the positive to the pad and the negative to the board. Use a standard switch. Start with basics and see how things are working maybe then start adding other things.

  7. #7

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    The momentary button has a switch wire, and then a ground. It looks like your ground is going to negative with the battery negative. I can't see the wiring where you come out of the GND side of your main switch. I guess you're running the lit switch off the DS pad via the resistor on the DS pad. My guess is you have some kind of switch short, or a short between pos and neg where that merge is, but its hard to tell from your pics.

    "Let the past die."

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jediseth View Post
    It’s a little hard to see what’s going on, but I’d start with taking the accent pad for the power indicator off the switch including both the positive to the pad and the negative to the board. Use a standard switch. Start with basics and see how things are working maybe then start adding other things.
    So, I don't have a "standard" momentary switch on hand, so I just disconnected the switch. I then directly bridged the accent pad to the black wire that is tied into the white wire that goes from the s/c pin on the recharge port to board negative by simply touching the wires together.

    Before touching the wires, when I pulled the kill key, I got the startup noise again for once, but when I touched the wires together, nothing happened.

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