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Thread: OWK Kit Build

  1. #1

    Default OWK Kit Build

    Back to back here...and in reverse order on my builds - because it took me a few months to be confident enough to show my projects, and I just started neopixels and am upgrading all my prior projects. I started in January with a sweet MHS, then did 2 Graflexes, a DM1 and the ones i posted tonight. This OWK is the slimmest and my favorite looking hilt. Prism 5.1 and neo...all parts from TCSS, designed and printed my own chassis and rig for the buttons - drilled out the brass screw as the aux, and used a rivet under the jewel to reach the button. This one was super fun and feels and looks awesome! Thanks to the forum for various advice that helped me through. Did a 22MM bass and left about an inch to create a resonant chamber which makes it pretty loud!
    Last edited by scott; 04-11-2019 at 05:57 AM.

  2. #2


    Pics not showing up x.x
    Light or dark. the path doesn't matter. What matters is how you act once you have chosen a path

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    My bad...not sure what happened!

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    Very nice for sure =] Can't wait til the day I get this one and a Graflex 2.5 saber :P
    Light or dark. the path doesn't matter. What matters is how you act once you have chosen a path

  5. #5


    Dude, I would grab one of these (suggest everyone does) form TCSS before they are gone...Korbanth is upgrading the kit (which I am sure will be awesome, and I will get the v2), but from my experience, I am guessing that they will make it a bit larger inside for easier install. if they make the OD any bigger, it will take away from what this version offers, which is the smallest OD hilt I have seen. Looking forward to see if V2 can keep the OD and increase the ID, but I am doubtful...I was able to fit what i wanted only but chopping out (not very gracefully) parts of the inner tube.

  6. #6


    I’m building one of these now. It’s my first build and still sorting some things out. I’m using a goth 3designs chassis. How did you get the switch to fit in that space once it’s all screwed together? And did you glue the switch down? Did you trim the pins off the bottom of the switch? Any help is greatly appreciated!!

  7. #7


    There are 2 switches in mine. The stock switch that comes with the kit fits right in the slot under the red button. I did glue the switch into the space provided. Also did trim the pins and solder to the nubs. I coated the slot with liquid electrical tape so that the switch didn’t make contact with the metal hilt. If you have a NB4, you are good with just that switch, and kind of hoping that is the case on a first build. If you are doing a prism, the aux button is much more involved, but the part of the build I am most proud of. The bottom is very tight, and I printed my own chassis so not familiar with the goth 3d version. I went 22mm speaker, and you want to make sure you leave a good half inch to an inch for resonance since the speaker isn’t that loud.

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    Awesome. Thanks for your notes! I am just using an NB4. So what did you do with the part circled in yellow? Doesn't seem to fit well when the body is threaded.

  9. #9


    Thanks for the refresher...I actually followed Madcows advice and ordered tons of the low cost supplies (resistors, screws, switches, etc.) and used a TCSS stock switch without the board on the bottom...then you just solder your wires to the nubs and it doesn’t have that half moon part. With what you have, you can sand, or carefully excise parts of the underlying board so the switch fits, as long as the contact remain intact. Use your multimeter, but obviously you only need two of the 4 connectors as each side of the switch has two prongs.

  10. #10


    Thank you. This has been quite helpful. I would have PM’d you, but I haven’t earned that privilege just yet


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