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Thread: First Build - "Insight"

  1. #1

    Default First Build - "Insight"

    Hey folks, I wanted some feedback on my first build. I've tried to go for a graflex-inspired aesthetic that carries some of the "built out of random stuff" style of the OT sabers. I'd love feedback on both my parts list and the construction itself. I have no experience with any machining or electrical so have no idea if what I'm planning is even feasible. I haven't gotten a quote for the shroud or the powder-coating yet, but depending on how those come out it might adjust my plans somewhat.

    Something to note is that this won't have any electronics to start - I'm getting the shell together and will be upgrading it slowly over time to spread out the cost a bit. Along with that, I'm waiting on a blade and will fill the gap with a plug as a display piece. Anyway, here's the list and concept.

    All parts are TCSS

    Parts List:
    Blade Holder 19 [PC: Brass or Copper]
    Ribbed V-grooved Extension
    Short Choke 1 [PC: Brass or Copper]
    4” Double Female Groved Ext [PC: Solar Flat Black]
    Pommel 7
    Pommel Insert 12
    Bunny Ears [PC: Brass]
    MHS Sleeve Material 12”, cut to graflex shape
    24 8-32 x 1/8” Screws
    2 4-40 socket head screws for bunny ears
    MPS Clip
    8 O-rings
    Kill plug 5, silver
    2.1mm power jack
    16mm AV momentary, stainless
    8-32 x 3/8” Brass thumb screw
    Super lube
    1” Hilt safety plug 2


  2. #2

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    Even though you’ll be doing the electronics “later”, you should plan your design as if you’re going to do it all at once, this way you won’t have to “redo” your design down the road because you forgot to take certain things into account.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    For sure, that's exactly what I'd love to get feedback on. I was just meaning that it was the reason there weren't any electronics in the parts list. If there's a limitation on the future chassis, board, etc I def want to know now.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Even though you’ll be doing the electronics “later”, you should plan your design as if you’re going to do it all at once, this way you won’t have to “redo” your design down the road because you forgot to take certain things into account.
    Alright, so looking at a theoretical future electronics setup I think I have two options:

    1) Try and move the switch up into the grenade handle (maybe into the top of the choke where it threads into the grenade?) and just put the whole NBv4 assembly with battery into the double female grooved extension in the bottom. I'm guessing from the pictures that the whole NBv4 mounted in a chassis can fit into about 4 or 4.5 inches of space - is this right, or am I totally off there?

    or

    2) put the sound and board in the bottom of the double female grooved ext with a normal chassis and run a wire to a battery in the grenade section, putting the battery in a MHSv2 chassis with ~.15 inches of padding to make it friendly with the reduced MHSv1 size in that section.

    Real talk: do either or both of these sound dumb?

  5. #5

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    For balance you will likely want your battery closer to the speaker.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by SimplicityLost View Post
    Alright, so looking at a theoretical future electronics setup I think I have two options:

    1) Try and move the switch up into the grenade handle (maybe into the top of the choke where it threads into the grenade?) and just put the whole NBv4 assembly with battery into the double female grooved extension in the bottom. I'm guessing from the pictures that the whole NBv4 mounted in a chassis can fit into about 4 or 4.5 inches of space - is this right, or am I totally off there?

    or

    2) put the sound and board in the bottom of the double female grooved ext with a normal chassis and run a wire to a battery in the grenade section, putting the battery in a MHSv2 chassis with ~.15 inches of padding to make it friendly with the reduced MHSv1 size in that section.

    Real talk: do either or both of these sound dumb?
    Theoretically, the first option is closer to the approach I'd take. That being said, which I THINK you could fit the NBv4, batt, speaker, etc in that 4in section, I fit a 3D printed chassis that included a recharge port in a 4in section of my hilt. Your recharge port is separate from the rest of your chassis, so that might save you some space. You'd almost certainly need to move the switch up higher as you suggested though.

  7. #7

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    Oh, and excellent plan diagram by the way. I love the look and feel of the lightsaber! Looking forward to a hopeful build log!

  8. #8

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    Thanks!

    Another question real quick: if a recharge port is wired as a kill key is it still usable to recharge batteries or would I need a second port?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by SimplicityLost View Post
    Thanks!

    Another question real quick: if a recharge port is wired as a kill key is it still usable to recharge batteries or would I need a second port?
    Yes, it acts as a kill key and recharge port.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

    Default

    The kill function is actually just a handy side effect of a properly installed charge port. It's important so the charger can charge the battery directly without the electronics complicating the issue.

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