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Thread: NBv4 - No Flash on Clash

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDSabers View Post
    Yes - it's the same as I've used before (with a different color in each bank):

    //Nano Biscotte 4.0
    drive=1023,0,0
    fdrive=1023,1023,1023
    focmix=001
    resume=0
    shmrd=210
    shmrp=6
    shmrr=13
    shmr%=0,50
    focd=200
    focp=10
    focr=10
    foc%=0,80
    qon=0
    qoff=0
    flks=3
    flkd=20
    pulsed=0
    pulsel=0
    lsfadeon=0
    lsfadeoff=0
    lightstick=0
    omnisabers=0

    I've got no motion-sounds - no clash - nuttin. Are there other configurations I should be looking at?
    Check the override.txt file.
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    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  2. #12

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    ## Override File
    vol=4
    beep=40
    rebootd=1250
    motg=500
    muteoff=0
    gate=70
    hclash=700
    hswing=220
    offd=200
    swing=200
    clash=150
    deep=15000
    ledstrip=0
    ls0=14
    ls1=28

  3. #13

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    Try lowering the gate down to 15, and see what happens.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #14

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    I changed it to:
    gate=15

    No difference. Still no swing or clash.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDSabers View Post
    it looks like your L3 is bridged across to the small circular patch next to it.
    BEING DARK DOSEN'T MAKE YOU EVIL JUST... MISUNDERSTOOD

  6. #16

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    It’s a possibility. Try removing that wire (and cleaning up the solder) and see what happens.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #17

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    I would reworking all of those joints. There is a lot of bare wire to risk shorting, and the some joints look dry and may not be making good conductive contact. The gaps indicate that you probably aren't using enough heat. The whole pad should have flowed with solder and the wire should be centered on the pad.

  8. #18

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    I re-soldered L3. Here's a super CU of the connections:
    20181212_200202.jpg
    20181212_200433.jpg

  9. #19

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    Those joint don’t look that great. The important joint was the wire in the middle of the board, as that may be causing a bit of an issue.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #20

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    The solder should be shiny and should follow to cover the pad. Those are cold joints. To properly flow the joint you need to apply the iron to the pad and the wire run the solder. If it's sticking to your iron it's a sign your too is is either not hot enough. If you are just blobbing solder on your iron and trying to stick it to the pad that isn't a good method either.

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