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Thread: WIP -Fett263's Proffieboard Kylo CG 2.0 Neopixel (Pic Heavy)

  1. #11


    I've begun opening up the side ports to 7/8 inch with a dremel sanding drum to accommodate the neopixel holders but it's a slow process because the metal heats up so quickly and I want to get them perfect. More on that later.

    In the meantime, between sanding to ports, I'm assembling and testing the double battery - 3 position switch set up.

    I'm using a 3 position SPDT switch (On-Off-On) as both a kill switch (Off) and to toggle between the two 21700 batteries. The white wires will attach to the center pole and connect to the board (-) and GND. I wired up three separate for easier connection to the board.

    Next I pulled the two JST connectors for the batteries into the chassis, the negatives from both will connect to the two outer poles on the switch, this will toggle from one to the other so only one is running at any given time (refer to 1st post for wiring diagram).

    I'm leaving slack in the JST connectors, need to determine if they'll be tucked into the bottom of the chassis or kept in the reveal cavity under the battery so having a little slack gives me options once all the wiring is in place.

    I added some additional electrical tape in addition to the heat wrap on the solder posts since the switch will be very close to the board when all is installed.
    I won't glue the switch into the chassis until everything is wired up and tested, for now it's just loose.

    Next up, I'm testing the switch and connections BEFORE wiring up the board, just to be safe. These are new batteries and I haven't fully charged yet so the voltage is low, but I'm only testing the switch works as expected to cut power and toggle between. I have the battery positives connected to each other and I'm leaving the three board (-) from the center pole of the switch separate and testing individually to confirm everything will run as expected. This also cuts out a variable later should any wiring issues pop up. I'm confirming the batteries and switch all run and the electricity can flow to the board for all three points.

    When the switch is in the center (OFF) there is no power.

    Next the switch is turned to the Left "ON" position and we have power - I tested each of the three white board (-) wires individually.

    And the switch in the Right ON position, also tested each white wire individually.

    Now that that's all wired up and working I'll keep working on those side ports. The top portion for the emitters is getting the most modifications, so I knew going in it would be the most time consuming, but once it's all done things will be downhill from there on out. I'll probably start building the blades next and work on the side ports and other mods to the top section as I go.

    Slow and steady but coming along...

  2. #12


    Progress update - I got one side port opened up to 7/8 inch but ran out of sanding drums on the second so had to order more, ran through a bunch but it's worth it.

    If you're opening the ports a few recommendations; first make sure you have plenty of sanding drums you're gonna need them. Second, take your time the metal heats up fast, I do a little at a time, take a break and go back at it. Third, if you had the side ports painted (like I did), expect you're going to need to touch up, I already had a few scratches just from handling, but little slips etc are going to happen. So far (knock on wood) it's all fixable, but I'm also very much prepared to needing to repaint as well. Do not try opening the side ports up if you don't want to repaint completely or are afraid of damaging the paint job.

    Here's the start point:

    Next I took a left over piece of 7/8 inch tube from another build and scored a line on the depth I want to achieve. After each little bit I test fit, you want to be able to insert easily but also you don't want to open too big or the blade will be loose, so I continuously check a little at a time. I also find you can feel the high points if you run your finger inside to help determine where to focus the sanding.

    The first side is done, here's the end result, yes, lots of touch ups will be needed but I'm not going to bother until I finish all of the mods.

    And the test, tube inserted to test, it fits perfectly so we're good on this side. I started the second but need more drums to complete.

    While I wait for the sanding drums I went ahead and assembled the neopixels, I'm using the "skinny" types for both the main blade and quillions, the final length will be determined when I insert in the blade I left a few extra pixels on each to give me options, the goal especially on the quillions is to insert as far to the tip as possible so having extra to play with helps. For the data line, I have the 330 ohm resistor wired in the connector for each.

    That's it so far.

  3. #13


    I did another test fit on the upper battery, if you recall I was originally having issues with the Power button wiring not being able to fit through the window cut out in the inner tube with the battery inserted so I created a channel in the shroud and cut out a pathway in the inner tube to allow the wiring to avoid the battery. While I'm waiting to finish opening the 2nd side port to 7/8 inch I decided to put things back together for another fitting and now the battery fits perfectly, it is pretty snug, very little room for anything else and realistically I'm thinking this will probably be left in the hilt at all times and recharged in place. First, I don't really want to be pulling it in and out and second, the lower battery is very easily replaced through the reveal chamber. In a pinch I could still remove the upper battery if necessary, it will still be connected with the JST, it's just going be a more "surgical" removal than the lower battery given how snug it is with all of the wiring.

    The battery fits but it's tight so I'm thinking most of the time it'll be left in the hilt and the lower one will be swapped out if both die during a longer event. Still removable, just need to be careful with all of the wiring if I do.



  4. #14


    Got a little more prep work done.

    I'm using the KR saber's wire clips, painting the base black with the Testors flat black so they blend in more accurately. Also, gave the Propicator's button inserts a very thin coat, they still have some translucence like the reference image.

    I also began routing the button and power wires in the chassis. I'm not going to hook anything up until I get the neopixel connectors installed to make sure I fit everything and route properly.

    For the chassis, as noted earlier I modified ahead of time. I am using Goth's 0.99 ID Proffieboard chassis and the 0.99 ID Press Fit Chassis disc, the press fit disc is glued on the end of the Proffieboard chassis to give the extension needed for the switch. The ID of the tube is slightly larger than 0.99 so the press fit disc doesn't actually hold the chassis so it can slide easily, but with the batteries, etc. installed there is almost no room for it to move. The speaker mount is also pictured, as noted earlier this is Goth's 1.12 ID bass speaker mount, I did cut it down to fit in the base of the hilt.

    I should be able to finish opening up the 2nd port this weekend and then it'll be time to put this baby together and test it out.

  5. #15


    Got a bunch done this morning. First I assembled one of the quillion blades, I'm using theProplicator's unstable blades (PPv2 for 7/8 in diameter). I have slightly changed the diffusion approach from my Prizm build, but it's essentially the same.

    I did a test fit to get the exact number of pixels I can fit in, for this blade it was 19 on the long side, 18 on the short side, due to the pixels being offset from each other. When positioning I will have the longer side facing up although with the skinny neopixels I haven't really seen a noticeable difference.

    I trimmed up the very tip as close as possible to get it in as deep as I can

    Then I cut a small piece of diffusion foam to reinforce the base (this doesn't cover any pixels it just helps keep the strip centered in the blade).

    Since the ends of the blades are thinner I add an additional wrap of blade film around the last 5 pixels (the length may change since I haven't tested to see the brightness, color, corn-cobbing effect yet). I use a small piece of clear tape to hold it in place, this let's me wrap it very tightly around the strip.

    Next I took a 6 inch piece of blade film and also held it with a small piece of clear tape, this piece will cover the entire strip, again the length may change after I test.

    Then again, I tightly wrap around the strip, you want it to be as tight as possible to fit into the blade, the length may get adjusted after I test. I use two more small pieces of tape to keep it rolled. The last pixel is extended from the top to let a little more light on the tip to try to light it up a bit more.

    Next carefully insert into the blade, if you look the interior is a bit of an oval you want the strip to go in at the wider point it will let you get it a bit deeper, this one I got to about 16 ~ 17mm from the very tip.

    Lastly I drill and tap for a set screw to keep the connector attached.

    Continued in next post - 10 image limit...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16


    Continued from previous post...

    I also finished opening up the 2nd side port to 7/8 inch and test fit the assembled quillion (I'm only building one right now, after it's tested and I get the diffusion figured out I'll build the 2nd one the same way).

    In addition, I drilled and tapped the set screw holes for each of the neopixel connectors and the blade retention screws. The main blade screw will be here on the top portion, this actually gets covered by the shroud so it's not seen when it's fully assembled.

    Then I drill 4 holes for the side ports, one for the connector one for the blade retention screw (they'll all be set screws)

    And finally for the main blade retention screw

    I've decided I'll need to just repaint the side ports, I tried touch up but I'm not happy, so I'll be giving it a very light sanding and start the new paint job tomorrow. Once that's done it's time to wire this all up and test it out.

  7. #17


    Didn't get as far as I wanted, ended up spending most of the weekend on a ladder putting up Christmas lights, but I did sand down the side ports and get two coats of paint on.

    I had originally had the "weathering" done by Korbanth but the paint on the side ports starting rubbing off with general handling, then opening the ports up to 7/8 it only got worse so I sanded the paint off (which was super easy since it didn't take well anyway) and I'm repainting. I already did this on my Prizm build as well, just a note, the weathering on the main body of the saber is nicely done (which is why I paid the extra $ for it) but the side ports are simply painted over the black and the paint comes away pretty easily so if you get the weathering you might end up needing to redo anyway unless you're super careful handling.


    I already have two coats of silver for the base, if I get time later tonight I'll probably need one more coat of the silver before the next color.


    I also assembled my main blade, I'll be testing out two different tips, I picked up a 3D printed neopixel bullet tip on Shapeways (I used a 7/8 inch version on my Proffie Graflex). It's hollow so you can get the pixels all the way to the tip. I also ordered the new parabolic hollow tip from TCSS and will see which I like better when I get this all fired up.


    The rest of the blade is assembled just like all of the other neopixels I see out there, foam, diffuser and clear tube.
    Last edited by Fett263; 12-03-2018 at 08:26 AM.

  8. #18


    Finished the third coat of silver last night and sprayed one coat of flat black for the side ports this morning to give it the burned away paint look. I'll let that dry completely today before moving on to next step. I'll be doing the rest of the coloring by hand once the saber is completed as part of the final details (although I kinda like this look already).


    For the final coats I also inserted the set screws so that they get the same coloring to blend in a bit more.


    I also attached the body plate with two of the KR wire holders, I'm using the screw in the body, I'll just need to double check they don't affect the battery positioning, if they do I'll remove and just glue the holders and plate in place, I previously painted the bases of wire holders black so they blend in.


  9. #19


    Hi Fett263

    I think I mentioned this in your other thread, but I have a nearly identical project waiting for me, and your detailed posts have been very helpful. I've not yet received the side blades from the Etsy guy, and I have another saber to finish anyway.
    But when I get to the Kylo, many of those small things will have been sorted out thanks to you, so again..thanks and well done.


  10. #20


    Quote Originally Posted by Darkmatter73 View Post
    Hi Fett263

    I think I mentioned this in your other thread, but I have a nearly identical project waiting for me, and your detailed posts have been very helpful. I've not yet received the side blades from the Etsy guy, and I have another saber to finish anyway.
    But when I get to the Kylo, many of those small things will have been sorted out thanks to you, so again..thanks and well done.

    Thank you, glad to help.


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