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Thread: Fett263's Graflex neopixel w/ backup battery and dual ignition switch (Proffieboard)

  1. #1

    Default Fett263's Graflex neopixel w/ backup battery and dual ignition switch (Proffieboard)

    Starting my second build (first build with a Proffieboard). As posted separately, I am going to be using two 18650 batteries in this set up with a switch to toggle between. I'm using Goth's padawan chassis and while rough fitting I realized there is plenty of room to put a second battery in the "neck" of the saber, I'll be wiring it up like so to allow for easy switching between the primary and secondary battery to essentially double the run time between charging. Since I'm doing neopixels and can't easily replace batteries this was my solution.

    The switch will toggle which battery is running or charging and keep them separate from each other since each individually protected.

    I've also added an LED indicator between the recharge port and board so I can easily see when the power is cut. It was recommended I use the Kill Key to cut power to the board before switching battery sources. Since Goth's chassis includes a Kill Key with a notch so you can turn it in place to activate/deactivate the power I wanted a clear way to see that the kill key was properly in place, so the LED will be lit when power is going to the board and will go off when it's safe to switch the battery.


    In addition, I've also decided to install two ignition switches, since I've always considered the "control" box to be the way Luke ignited the saber, but seeing as Finn and Rey appear to use the "top" button, I decided in my own "head cannon" that Anakin being a tech wiz kid would have given himself two options, not sure if anyone has done, so I wanted to try. I will be using Goth's switch holder in the control box for a second ignition switch and the AUX switch. This will also make it easier to just use the control box to hold the ignition and Aux if needed. Here's how I plan to wire this all up, you can either use the red button or the top half of the control box to ignite the saber depending on the grip employed and then the bottom half of the control box will be the AUX:


    I have the remaining parts and Proffieboard on order and shipping soon so once I get everything I'll be putting it all together with pics.

    More to come...
    Last edited by Fett263; 10-17-2018 at 08:14 AM.

  2. #2


    I've wired the red button and clamp card switch for ignition, and then put the aux button in the clamp as well. It works just fine. You can ignite via red button, or the clamp. It was awesome. If you get the 1" Graflex 2.5 adapter kit, you can put the aux switch at the slide tab position via switch 22, and then have parallel aux switches too. That switch 22 was a PITA on the 1" adapter though. I've done one. I think I'll stick to clamp switches for dual switch setups.

    "Let the past die."

  3. #3


    Cool, yeah for this build I'm leaving it as 7/8, I had a bunch of left over 7/8 blade parts from my Crossguard build, before I decided on the 3D printed quillion blades I had picked up parts for 7/8 blades that I didn't use, so I'm keeping this build straightforward. It's going to be more about learning the Proffieboard programming with this build, I'll probably be picking your brain on that side when the time comes.

  4. #4


    If you run into troubles, I can help. I built a beta one for testing the board. Its kind of cool that I got to be one of the first people to install one. I have quite a bit of Arduino programming experience from both Teensy/Proffie. I built 5 more TeensySabers this week. I also built 2 NBIV lightsabers. I'm flying on builds right now. Its crazy!

    With all the hubbub on fb via Graflex Addicts, the masses hate on the Korbanth Graflex. I love the Korbanth Graflex. Its tough, its install friendly, gives you all the variation options, and the spare parts come in handy for other projects. I think it has great value, looks great, and is tough as nails. Maybe its not one gazillion percent "screen accurate" or accurate to a replica flash to exacting details, but it looks outstanding. It certainly passes muster for costuming purposes. If I were a GML, I'd have no issues approving a 2.5/2.1 Graflex kit for someone's costume. They are way better than MR. It is my absolute all time favorite hilt. I keep hoping for a TCSS crazy sale, because I intend on ordering more of them. I'm running low on spare parts supplies from my others.

    Here is link to my last year's Graflex insanity build (ANH, ESB, TFA), the TFA had dual activation via TGS red button/Shtok clamp switch holder:

    Link to my TLJ build thread last year

    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 10-18-2018 at 09:24 AM.

    "Let the past die."

  5. #5


    Yeah, I will definitely hit you up with any issues, appreciate it. I always loved the look of the Graflex, this is really just for fun and to add to my collection and as a test for the Proffieboard. So far the Korbanth seems really easy to install, especially with Goth's DIY instructions and parts. Plus it'll be a nice "light-side" to counter my Crossguard for Kylo (and if I can ever get my wife to let me get her a Rey costume it would be perfect). From the build and wiring side the Korbanth Graflex seems like a perfect saber for beginners like myself, so I'm happy with it. I think my mailman is dropping my TCSS order off today so I'll have the remaining parts to start the main assembly. Then I'll just be waiting for the Proffieboard and should be able to get it constructed pretty quickly. The programming will probably be more time-consuming than the physical build, at least that's what I'm anticipating, so I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions coming your way.

    Thanks again. I'll definitely check out your TLJ thread as well.

  6. #6


    I wired up and tested the battery/switch set up and got initial construction done while waiting for the Proffieboard, just need to assemble the blade and then hook up and program the Proffieboard and button everything up.

    The battery set up works just like expected, tested running and charging with the switch.

    In order to fit the second battery I wired up the neopixel connection (using a 3-pin GX-16) and inserted the first battery into the inner tube with the JST connector running down to the bottom. In order to insert the connector I used the inner tube to push into position, and the bottom screw is holding the connector in place in the black portion of the emitter (not the inner tube).

    Then I inserted the second battery into Goth's chassis and pulled the wiring through.

    I wired up both batteries to the switch to toggle between and the re-charging port and tested the switch, kill key and recharging. As noted I added an LED indicator for when there is power going to the board, it's connected to the battery (+) and board (-) on the recharge port so whenever power is flowing to the board the LED is lit, when the kill key or charger is connected the light is off. This is to show when it's safe to toggle between the batteries.

    When kill key is properly inserted the LED is off:

    When it's turned to allow power to flow to the board the LED is lit
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7


    And when the charger is inserted the LED is off:

    I also wired up and assembled the main switch and the switches in the clamp card and ran all the wires in preparation for the Proffieboard.

    Now I just need to build the blade and then wait for my Proffieboard to arrive.

  8. #8


    Got my Proffieboard today, now the fun begins.

  9. #9


    And here we go...

    One note, I did swap out the switch for the dual batteries, after some research the original switch wasn't rated high enough for the 10A battery so rather than have to change it down the line or cause an issue I got a better switch rated for 28 VDC, 6A (I believe this will be sufficient but if anyone knows better please let me know, since the Voltage is so much lower I figured the higher A would still work considering the linear relationship of V to A, but I am far from an electrical engineer or expert in this matter so I reserve the right to be wrong and need to change

    Old switch on the right, new one on the left, it's only slightly bigger so I just opened the notch a bit and it fit like a glove, it's only press fit in so if I need to change it's easy to do.

    Got the Proffieboard programmed, SD Card updated and it's all wired up. It's all default right now, wanted to get it working before I attempted anything custom, but Profezzorn's instructions and information made it much simpler than I thought, everyone here already knows it but as a total novice I found it extremely helpful and informative.

    I did have a let down the very first time I went to ignite, the blade keep igniting and immediately retracting, I figured it was a wiring issue so I slowly checked everything and couldn't find an issue, then I took the top button apart and tried and it worked, there was a teeny, tiny bit of the button foot exposed and it must have been touching the button housing when I screwed it in, causing a short, I covered it up with additional electrical tape and problem solved, so just keep that in mind if anyone runs into an issue. A minor set back, but my heart did drop when it first happened, I thought I had been very diligent in wiring and couldn't figure out what I did wrong, but rather than panic I isolated and tracked it back and crisis averted.

    And now the moment of truth...

    I'm pretty proud of myself, next I'll slowly try my hand at changing up some styles, etc and I have KSith's Balance font I want to install. Baby steps, but the first big hurdle is cleared.
    Last edited by Fett263; 11-08-2018 at 09:05 AM.

  10. #10


    The Proffie is really amazing. I don't understand why so many are intimidated about configuring it. I have installed 4 of them, working on my 5th right now...DV6. Awesome job Fernando! Now, drill that tip deeper and get your strips further in the tip! 7/8 are tough.


    "Let the past die."


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