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Thread: NBv4 Quad-Cree Actually Easy?

  1. #1

    Question NBv4 Quad-Cree Actually Easy?

    Screenshot 2018-10-07 at 7.00.07 PM.jpg

    Hi, I'm building my first saber and wanted to use a BBBW Quad-Cree with a NBv4 if possible. I've seen some people say this can be rather complicated, but the diagram in the NBv4 manual made it seem simple, let me know if I'm thinking correctly here. Using the power xtender you should have 3 high power LED pads, L1 L2 L3, each pad is rated at 4 amps. If I parallel 2 of the blue dies to L1, and we'll assume the correct resistors are in use for simplicity, then attach the 3rd blue die to L2, I can then attach the white FOC die to L3 via the power xtender. Wouldn't it be that simple or am I missing something? Also, If I wire it this way, does the NBv4 know to use the white die for flash on clash, does it default to whatever die uses the xtender for this function? Thanks so much. - Jonathan

  2. #2

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    It can be done that way, though you probably won’t get the brightness you may be expecting.

    You would have to verify that the NB is configured to use the third die as the FoC.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3

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    Hi, thanks for the response. Why do you suppose the brightness would be effected? Each die is rated at 1 amp so the parallel pair would only be drawing 2, and the NBv4 is rated at 4 for each channel, so i thought it would be well within margins. I appreciate any advice you can share. Thanks.

  4. #4

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    The lack of brightness will be more of a “Law of diminishing returns” type of deal. Most newbies come in thinking that 3 x something means it’ll be three times as bright as one, and that’s not always the case with light. It’ll only be slightly brighter than a standard Tri-Cree, and you may not even really notice the extra brightness.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

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    I see what you mean, but I don't really have any expectations at the moment because I've never seen a lit saber of any build variety. I mean online videos are pretty much useless for judging brightness because of how cameras adjust for the light. I just figured for a few extra dollars why not add another die for the heck of it. Whatever the final brightness is, I'm sure I'll be smiling when i switch it on for the first time. Thanks for the input.

  6. #6

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    You'll have to set the drive parameter in your config to have L1 and L2 on full with the fdrive adding L3 as a flash on clash die. My advice is to look through the sections of the NB manual regarding the drive and fdrive parameters. It's pretty easy to understand, but essential to know.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by cvsickle View Post
    You'll have to set the drive parameter in your config to have L1 and L2 on full with the fdrive adding L3 as a flash on clash die. My advice is to look through the sections of the NB manual regarding the drive and fdrive parameters. It's pretty easy to understand, but essential to know.
    Thanks for the tip, I looked over the manual and I think I get the idea. I'm just wondering, it says the maximum value per drive is 1023, is that just a programming value, or does it represent the milli-amps output? I assume it's not since the board is supposed to have 4 amps per pad, but just checking. My board hasn't arrived in the mail yet, since I realize i could just stick a multi-meter on it. Thanks.

  8. #8

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    I just wired an NBv4 with two reds on a quad-cree. (dR+R/rB/pcA, very strong full red, cool FoC options) The hardest part was wiring the leds because the MHS heatsinks don't have a center hole so either you gotta drill one or use a 1" sink somehow (I was converting a saber that had a 1" bore). If you want a PM showing how I wired mine I took some progress pics. Since both the hilt and the led aren't TCSS though I won't post them here out of respect.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by lovetadraw View Post
    I just wired an NBv4 with two reds on a quad-cree. (dR+R/rB/pcA, very strong full red, cool FoC options) The hardest part was wiring the leds because the MHS heatsinks don't have a center hole so either you gotta drill one or use a 1" sink somehow (I was converting a saber that had a 1" bore). If you want a PM showing how I wired mine I took some progress pics. Since both the hilt and the led aren't TCSS though I won't post them here out of respect.
    Hi, some pics would be great, you can PM me. Your blade color sounds awesome!

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Teslatechguy View Post
    Thanks for the tip, I looked over the manual and I think I get the idea. I'm just wondering, it says the maximum value per drive is 1023, is that just a programming value, or does it represent the milli-amps output? I assume it's not since the board is supposed to have 4 amps per pad, but just checking. My board hasn't arrived in the mail yet, since I realize i could just stick a multi-meter on it. Thanks.
    Yes, the 1023 just applies the max voltage of the battery to the pad. Any lower value just applies the proportional voltage.

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