Kenner saber sound boards?

[Marsupial]

as they say. I did wire an external switch to this board. It works. You only need to choose where you solder it (look at there the traces go)

note: it uses a momentary switch, you might have problems with a latching on/off switch.

as for supporting the current, if you read the thread, you'll see I use 4AA and a luxeon III with no problems so far.

[JediCarpet]

Apologies for digging up an old thread, but I found my old Kenner and I was thinking of using it for sound in my next build. Hopefully someone familiar with this setup is still around who can help. I think the capacitor on the board is toast, so if I can get it working again it'll be a good addition to what was going to be a stunt. (Otherwise I might just swipe my brother's

A few questions specific to the build:
1) Would the clash sensor in the storeadequately replace the clash sensor that comes with it? That spring in there is huge! http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cl...020P-P485.aspx

2) As was said in the first post, the speaker is a 0.25W 8ohm. Could that be replaced with a 1.5W 8 ohm speaker? Again, trying to replace that massive thing something huge with something that will fit in my hilt.

3) Will this (and an amber Rebel @ 700 mA) run off a pair of NiMH AAs in series? (originally 2C batteries in series) Or would it be better to go up to a 3.7V lithium? I'm going for as short a hilt as I can manage for this build (6-8" total length) so I wasn't planning on doing a recharge port. Could always wire it and stuff it in, and open the pommel to charge...

4) Also wondering if I can drive the LED off the board as is or if I should resistor it separately.

I'm also half considering if I need to rebuild the entire board onto a smaller platform...but that's only if I want to be ambitious. I don't know if I need to be there yet.

[JediCarpet]

I did some experimenting and here are the answers, in case anyone else is interested in the future:

1) Waiting for that part to arrive so I can test it, but based on my research into the part I believe it will work.
2) Used a 2W 8 ohm 28mm speaker. It is a different sound, for sure. A bit louder than the massive one that came with it.
3) 3.7V Lithium works great.
4) Resistored it separately and it works perfectly.

On a side note, I also got one of the new Hasbro sabers on sale (half price!) and despite a 4.5V requirement from the AAA batteries, it works fine on a 3.7V lithium. It looks very different from anything I've seen on the tutorials around here, and I've hit a bit of a road bump in using it until I can get a good multimeter to figure out some of the circuitry. Basically the clash effect is wired through the negatives on the circuit board itself, so it isn't as easy as just slapping in a new main LED.