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Thread: Djmehs' "Ascension" First Build

  1. #11

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    Added a few more WIP pictures I found on my phone from the early stages of the build before it was put on hold by my basement flooding. Below is a link to the Imgur album and is really for my reference more than anything else. Figured it would be easier than adding more individual pictures to the thread. Most of the pictures have already been posted but I figured I'd go ahead and get the ones I found on my phone to somewhere online before deleting them from my phone. The album has a description of each picture as well.

    https://imgur.com/a/1xX3f41

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by djmehs View Post
    It is, indeed, a Shtok chassis I mentioned it in my original post of some of the other forums, but because the TCSS forums are attached to a store, I know that there are some protocols on whether or not to provide specifics on components for which TCSS sells a version of (such as the MHS Chassis system) so I modified the post to not mention the specific chassis, figuring if someone asked (such as yourself), I could expand on it a little more. I was also somewhat hesitant to mention the specifics unless asked due to the fact I also mentioned frustration with the chassis and the support I received in regards to it.

    In regards to the ability to "make" a NeCree, that is definitely something I'd be interested in. What do you use to bridge the pads? Just a small length of wire? I think I recall Madcow actually going over that in one of the tutorials, but I think I realized the context was that of a GGW or something and for my first build, I was hoping for a tutorial going over the wiring up of a RGrB instead and ended up not finishing the video. Maybe I'll go back and spend some more time on there.

    Finally, in regards to the lead-free solder, my findings were that it seems that someone experienced, such as yourself, would definitely be able to use it efficiently. I noticed it actually seemed to work pretty well for wire to wire joints. I definitely don't think I'd ever try to use it on an LED again though. That was a nightmare. I honestly thought I was going to lose my LED in the process of all the soldering, melting, soldering melting, trying to get the old stuff off the pads so I could start fresh. In your experience, do you think that's consistent with first-time soldering on LEDs in general? Or likely due to the combination of the lead-free solder and the built in copper heat sink?
    All these 3D chassis don't have much support and require some level of modding to make them work to your application. They are a canvass.

    I think your experience soldering on the LED with lead free solder was a tough one. The copper base of the star absorbs a lot of heat. I crank up my heat when I'm soldering on a star, and I definitely use lead free solder there, and on boards.

    To bridge the postives on a star, I have had great success with both wires and resistor tails. Resistor tails can lend themselves to shorts; however, if you're wire stripping is neat and tidy, they work just fine. This way you only run one positive lead from your star with 3 negative leads (one from each LED), and can pop the resistors on the negative leads.

    Great build!

    TOm

    "Let the past die."

  3. #13

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    Thanks for the suggestion Tom! I think I might just give that a shot sometime!

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