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Thread: Teensysaber Neopixel parts list

  1. #1

    Default Teensysaber Neopixel parts list

    Hi guys.

    I'm planning to do a Neopixel-based install in my Graflex 2.0.

    My parts list is as follows. Besides wires, have I missed anything?

    • NeoPixel PCB connector and pin set
    • 7/8"" NeoPixel Hilt Side Adapter
    • 7/8"" Thin Walled NeoPixel Blade Adapter
    • 2x 1m WS2812B 144led RGB Neopixel
    • Blade Diffuser Film
    • 20AWG Silicon Wire for Neopixel
    • Clear Heat shrink tube for Neopixel
    • Foam tube for 7/8" and 1" thick walled tubes
    • 470ohm Carbon Film Resistor
    • 7/8 White Blade Round Tip
    • Teensyboard kit from KRSabers.
    • Knight Chassis Part 1 - Main shell
    • Knight Chassis Variant 1 - Part2
    • Adapter Prizm5.1 to TeensySaber V3
    • GRFLX 2.0/2.1/2.5 Clamp Sw Holder with suspension
    • Momentary Tact Tactile Push Button
    • 3.7v Li-ion Battery Charger
    • Keeppower 3.7v 18650 Battery
    • 2 x 8-32 x 1/8″ Set screw
    • 2.1mm DC recharge socket
    • True Premium Bass Speaker 28mm
    Last edited by EyeBr0ws; 08-15-2018 at 11:07 AM.

  2. #2

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    I didn’t see it, but I’m assuming a blade is on your list? Make sure you get the high amp 18650(10amp). I’d recommend ptfe wire too. I’m guessing the clamp rocker switch is Dmitry Shtoks? You’ll need the switches that he recommends. And my preference is the saber essentials 28mm speaker.

  3. #3

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    Blade is gonna be this one: https://www.jqsabers.com/product/78-...llet-tip-copy/
    Would you recommend the PTFE wire for the entire build? Yes, the clamp holder is from Dmitry and I'll be getting the switches he recommends. I'll look into that speaker, thanks.

  4. #4

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    Ptfe is not required, more of a recommendation for high current builds

  5. #5

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    I personally do not like white blades for pixels (or in general really). They seem to make problems by acting as a screen of sorts for the pin sources and to project on rather than solve anything. A clear blade, diffuser, foam, and a few meters of "clear gift wrap" as is typically used in a "fancy flashlight" style blade should suffice, although I've never used the diffuser so I cannot really comment on its efficacy.

  6. #6
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meatsweats View Post
    Ptfe is not required, more of a recommendation for high current builds
    Better than pvc imo. Thinner jacket that is more resilient against soldering iron heat and does not melt away. Stronger jacket as well. It’s also stiffer than silicone which can help with routing and wire management.
    末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末末 末末末末

  7. #7

    Default

    I triple like the PTFE wire comments. For blades I have found success with: back to back strips, clear heat shrink 1-2 layers (you can sand the outer layer with 1000 grit too). If you used skinny strips, you may have room for the clear gift wrap around the shrink. Then you pull that roll of stuff into the foam. Then pull the foam into the TCSS Strip Diffuser that is already installed in a clear blade. That is how I make my neopixel blades currently. My only difference from JBKuma is the clear shrink wrap. I think the TCSS strip diffuser works great.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  8. #8

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    You'll want to try to keep your soldering iron on the pad and the pin in order to ensure both are heated. I can see a couple joints where the solder is sort of bubbled on the pin and possibly doesn't reach the pad. It should be pretty easy to fix: heat up your iron and press it to the solder to reflow it and make sure you press down to the pad. Clean your tip between joints and don't just keep adding solder if it isn't making the joint. This will also help with your jaggy bits.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    You'll want to try to keep your soldering iron on the pad and the pin in order to ensure both are heated. I can see a couple joints where the solder is sort of bubbled on the pin and possibly doesn't reach the pad. It should be pretty easy to fix: heat up your iron and press it to the solder to reflow it and make sure you press down to the pad. Clean your tip between joints and don't just keep adding solder if it isn't making the joint. This will also help with your jaggy bits.
    Thanks jbkuma. I touched up the joints and they now look like this. I've also posted this on various Facebook groups and the general feedback was that this is acceptable although with too much solder on some of them. Now to wire the rest!

    39283023_10213896145172731_4954544379969667072_n.jpg
    39389913_10213896144332710_9033451748416552960_n.jpg
    39404722_10213896144492714_5287174551774429184_o.jpg
    39306879_10213896144372711_6573551075498917888_o.jpg

  10. #10

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    Good luck with the rest of the wiring. When it comes to programming everything I’d watch Tom Tilmons videos on YouTube. Aka Megatoothsith.

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