I was going to use L3 if I cannot get L2- to work correctly.
I was going to use L3 if I cannot get L2- to work correctly.
Config file?
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
//Nano Biscotte 4.0
drive=1023,0,0
fdrive=1023,1023,0
focmix=001
resume=0
shmrd=210
shmrp=6
shmrr=13
shmr%=0,50
focd=200
focp=10
focr=10
foc%=0,80
qon=0
qoff=0
flks=3
flkd=20
pulsed=0
pulsel=0
lsfadeon=0
lsfadeoff=0
lightstick=0
omnisabers=0
I didn't change anything yet, I don't even have the switch hooked up as I can tell if the light comes on dimly when the kill key is pulled.
Hmm, its a stumper for sure
drive=1023,0,0
only driving channel 1
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
The L3 wire is going to no where, its cut so it cant touch anything.
Also yes I only have it driving L1-, meaning L2- should not do anything, but this is not the case. When I unplug the kill key (and not click the on switch) the green led or blue led (anything to L2-, tried both dies) lights up. Nothing should light up if its in idle.
Ah.. I guess I read the issue wrong.. In that case there is something wrong with the L2 transistor or you are getting negative from somewhere else.
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
I think its a negative from somewhere but I am unsure how to find it/look for it. I don't see any bridges, and the transistor is newly soldered there as I thought that was the issue originally
There are little pads on the star interior of the main pads, that can cause this. Check continuity between the negative pads on your star with multi meter. If you have continuity between negative pads, you have a bridge somewhere. Nanos are pretty tough, I've thrown them around (ill advised) dropped them, heated them, never had a nano fail (not that it couldn't happen). My guess is a negative leak on the star. I'll see if I can drum up a picture to show you where to look.
Tom
"Mistakes are our greatest teacher."
Bookmarks