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Thread: How Much Shroud Material Can I Waste?

  1. #1
    Jedi Initiate hapki's Avatar
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    Default How Much Shroud Material Can I Waste?

    I'm working on a Kanan Jarrus saber. I keep trying to get a perfect circle for the charging pin area, but it's just not working. I've tried drilling the exact size, drilling smaller and sanding, and acid etching the circle as a guide. Still, no luck.
    IMG_2325.JPG
    I know "there is no try" but what I'm "doing" is wasting shroud material. I know Tim could create these parts perfectly, but I really wanted to do it myself.

    I also am trying to figure out a good way to make the grips. I etched some lines in the hilt for an inverted grip-type effect. My idea was to paint the etched lines, but that didn't work out very well. The lines were messy.
    IMG_2326.JPG
    I suppose the best solution for the grips would be a neoprene strip with adhesive backing; however, the lines are 4.76 inches long, and the grips don't come in that length--only shorter.

    This is the third attempt at a Kanan hilt.

  2. #2

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    For the grips, you could buy a neoprene strip/mat some place else than tcss with adhesive backing or if it doesn't have any adhesive, then buy the correct glue for metal and glue it on. You should be able to cut out any shape you want. That's all the advice I have, hope it helps!

  3. #3

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    If you create a perfect circle on a flat surface, and apply it to a cylindrical object, it will appear to be an oval shape. You'll need to translate the initial shape to account for the rounded surface it'll be applied to.

    I have no real idea how to do such a thing. Perhaps someone with experience using 3d-modeling software could shed some light on the subject.
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  4. #4

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    As SS said there will be some deviation from a perfect circle. ONe because of the cylinder and two because drills are actually inaccurate, which is why you bore or ream a drilled hole to be precise. That said, It shouldn't be that bad if you are drilling dead center and perpendicular to the tube. Any degree off will be seen.

    Try this if possible:

    Make crude height gage out of some material (wood, metal, etc) and a pen or scriber. Try to get as close to the radius of the shroud as possible. Calipers may help in measuring. Use the contraption to draw or scribe a line on the side and front face of the tube. Then measure out the distance from the end of the tube where you want your hole and scribe a line with your calipers. Where the two lines intersect will give you your center mark for the drill. Place the tube in your vise and it tighten the jaws lightly. Use a square to line up the two lines that you drew or scribed on the front face. That will get it generally true. Secure the piece fully, locate the crossed lines and drill away. Secure the vise to the press table if desired.

    This is assuming you have at least a drill press, vise and some basic tools. If by hand well, same idea. Just try your best to keep the drill bit perpendicular.

    Kinda cheating as this was done on the mill with drills and an endmill for the final size.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    If you create a perfect circle on a flat surface, and apply it to a cylindrical object, it will appear to be an oval shape. You'll need to translate the initial shape to account for the rounded surface it'll be applied to.

    I have no real idea how to do such a thing. Perhaps someone with experience using 3d-modeling software could shed some light on the subject.
    ...So couldn't you just invert the process? Make an oval on a flat surface, then apply it to the tube? If a circle on paper makes a landscape oval in the metal, couldn't a portrait oval on paper make a circle in the tube?

    (Does that make sense or am i on crazy pills? Its just an antihistamine, i swear!!)
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  6. #6

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    That actually makes sense.(unless I am on crazy pills too, lol) The only difficulty would be making the perfect oval, but that should be achievable.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by hapki View Post
    I'm working on a Kanan Jarrus saber. I keep trying to get a perfect circle for the charging pin area, but it's just not working. I've tried drilling the exact size, drilling smaller and sanding, and acid etching the circle as a guide. Still, no luck.
    IMG_2325.JPG
    I know "there is no try" but what I'm "doing" is wasting shroud material. I know Tim could create these parts perfectly, but I really wanted to do it myself.

    I also am trying to figure out a good way to make the grips. I etched some lines in the hilt for an inverted grip-type effect. My idea was to paint the etched lines, but that didn't work out very well. The lines were messy.
    IMG_2326.JPG
    I suppose the best solution for the grips would be a neoprene strip with adhesive backing; however, the lines are 4.76 inches long, and the grips don't come in that length--only shorter.

    This is the third attempt at a Kanan hilt.
    If you are trying for a perfect hole....start by using a wood dowel 1.5” in diameter sand it down to fit snugly inside of your shroud..then cut/drill your hole while supporting the material in a vise. Remember to cover the jaws with some thin wood or plastic so you don’t mar the shroud...it is thin. I was having a significant distortion problem before I did this. I also cut slightly smaller and use a dreamel tool to smooth the edges to the right size...
    Gary

  8. #8
    Jedi Initiate hapki's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the suggestions. I finally threw caution to the wind and just used a manual drill with a step bit. Amazingly enough, I got two good cuts. Here's what I have so far.

    IMG_2356.JPG
    IMG_2357.JPG
    IMG_2355.JPG
    IMG_2355.JPG
    IMG_2358.JPG
    I'm still thinking about grips, but I'm probably going to cut metal strips and place them over the etched grooves. I have tried this with aluminum, but it hasn't worked very well. I have better luck with brass, so I may try that if I can get a tube similar to the size of shroud material. Since the grip is slim, it probably doesn't need to be exact. Then there's the problem of attaching them. The obvious solution is to screw them on, but I don't want screws to show. I'll probably use the same cement that I used to fix my dishwasher mount to a granite counter top. It's the kind you have to mix. This saber won't be a dueling saber, so it doesn't have to be extremely rugged.

    Or, if I can find tank grips or some other good quality neoprene rubber in the correct size, I'll go with that.

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