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Thread: Simple First Saber: Parts List

  1. #1

    Default Simple First Saber: Parts List

    After an attempt to add sound to an Ultrasaber didn't pan out, I'm going to try my hand at a DIY saber for the first time. After far too much thought I'm going with something relatively simple.

    The hilt is powder coated copper with one translucent brass piece. I plan to make a short brass shroud to screw in to the flat portion of the ribbed extension, but we'll see if I'm confident enough for that later. 2 switches, recharge and RICE will be as close to the top of the main body piece as possible, leaving ~4" grip space underneath. Originally planned to use brass box style 2 but am considering other, sleeker options. The chassis will be all thread running from a v5 speaker mount hooked at the pommel to chassis disc 5 at the top of the 5" piece, with the Prizm module and battery filling the bottom portion.

    • Pommel 4 (Copper PC)
    • .75" Male/Female Extension (Trans. Brass PC)
    • 6" Female/Female Extension (Copper PC)
    • Ribbed Extension (Copper PC)
    • Blade holder 25 (Copper PC)
    • Brass MPS Insert Style 1, clip
    • Drill/Tap service for RICE
    • 8-32 x 3/8 thumb screw (blade retention)

    • Activation Box, 6-32 screws, service (custom Brass #13, not pictured)
    • 16mm AV brass switch (activation button)
    • Switch 21 (aux button)
    • Kill plug 5 brass
    • Switchcraft 2.1 power jack
    • Rice port style 2

    • MHS 28mm speaker mount v5
    • 4-40 all thread x2
    • Chassis disc 5
    • Prizm/18650 acrylic discs
    • Chassis spacers (2x .25", 2x 1.5")
    • 4-40 nuts
    • Power supply 3.7v 3400 mAh 18650
    • Heat shrink

    • Tri-Cree R/G/RB LED
    • 18 tri lens
    • Tri star thermal pad
    • MHS Heat Sink V3

    Brass shroud and screws

    Already Have
    • Prizm
    • 28mm Bass Speaker
    • Resistors
    • Indicator LED
    • Wire / JST

    Soldering station
    Power drill
    Rotary tool

    • Lens holder

    • I understand that the translucent brass coating is very light and may not match the actual brass pieces; I'm OK with that for now.
    • I had wanted a 12" saber but just couldn't get enough room to fit the electronics. The extra inch also makes it easier to grip.
    • There was also a Covertec clip on the bottom; interfered with the grip.

    Let me know if you see any problems. Thanks for the information on this forum!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dogsonofawolf; 06-26-2018 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Clarified activation box

  2. #2


    You don't need the lens holder with the tri-LED lens. I recommend getting a spare thermal pad for your LED star since they're inexpensive, and can't be reused if you ever need to remove the star from the heatsink for repairs.

    I didn't notice anything else missing or extra in your shopping list. Good luck with your build!
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings. for the lazy man's resistor calculator! for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3


    Thanks for the tips! Makes me feel a lot better that someone's looked at it. Looking forward to building this thing.

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