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Thread: 1965 RAY-O-VAC "Sportsman" 3 Cell Build

  1. #1

    Default 1965 RAY-O-VAC "Sportsman" 3 Cell Build

    Hey, y'all! I converted a Force FX saber awhile back, sold it, have purchased another and will be converting it as well. BUT... I'm ready to jump into more of a custom build (of course) now. VERY early stages, but here's some "before" pics. Any input or ideas welcome, I've considered cutting the bottom and using the butt for blade end... Biggest question is what do I do for blade holder? I have a nice 1" dueling blade from TCSS. Maybe a 1.25" sink tube holder? :shrugs: ID of the "hilt" is just bigger than a D-Cell (1.25"). On to the eye candy! I know some of y'all used these as-is for sabers as kids. I did!






    Edit: removed duplicate pic.

  2. #2

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    Hmm, bet I can trim a sink tube and jam it in there. Then use a sink tube blade holder...

  3. #3

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    That is a lovely number. Why not use the 1.25" OD blade holder?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    That is a lovely number. Why not use the 1.25" OD blade holder?
    The ID in the flashlight is actually larger than 1.25. Not sure how I'd make it fit securely. Def the way I'm heading though, thanks!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamielay View Post
    The ID in the flashlight is actually larger than 1.25. Not sure how I'd make it fit securely. Def the way I'm heading though, thanks!
    Set screws?

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #6

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    The sink tube will also be 1.25" OD. Depending on how much you need to make up you could try shimming it with a big of sink drain slivers, or you can try something like aluminum tape which I've used before to this purpose.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    Set screws?
    Tom, that’s a great idea. Some or all could be style accents/thumb screws.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    The sink tube will also be 1.25" OD. Depending on how much you need to make up you could try shimming it with a big of sink drain slivers, or you can try something like aluminum tape which I've used before to this purpose.
    Good call! Some parts coming tomorrow. Need to pull the trigger in a blade holder.

  9. #9

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    Should have taken pics/video - but I learned a lesson! Tried to save coin using a pre-wired LED/soundboard/switch kit off eBay. Same seller is on Etsy and sells tons of them to very positive reviews. Got it and it was put together well, flash on clash, illuminated switch, battery and charger. BUT it sounded terrible. Speaker was cheap, yes, but the actual sound font was a nightmare. My guess is it was pulled from a knock-off "lazer sword". Motion sensitivity was terrible. Single cyan LED was surprisingly bright. Switch was solid. Seller wasn't opposed to a return, it goes back today.
    tldr - if it seems too good to be true, it usually is.

  10. #10

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    Yeah just stick with a non wired version, and wire it yourself. It's so much fun doing it yourself and you will be more certain that all the connections are stable.

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