Seth Skywalkers first lightsaber

[bigkevin61]

To be honest, I’m not a fan of multiple retention screws. I tired that on my PVC sabers and I was not happy with it.

When the blade is out, can you freely screw the retention screw fully into the interior of the saber? For example, can you screw it down until it touches the blade holder (and would be sticking a good 1/4” or more into the interior?

If you are not binding up on the threads (a good taper hole) you should have no issue tightening the screw enough to get a good hold of your blade.

This is what one of my blades look like from tightening it down (so it doesn’t move).

C5B967B8-4F41-444C-A148-C82AF7576111.jpg

[Seth Skywalker]

To be honest, I’m not a fan of multiple retention screws. I tired that on my PVC sabers and I was not happy with it.

When the blade is out, can you freely screw the retention screw fully into the interior of the saber? For example, can you screw it down until it touches the blade holder (and would be sticking a good 1/4” or more into the interior?

If you are not binding up on the threads (a good taper hole) you should have no issue tightening the screw enough to get a good hold of your blade.

This is what one of my blades look like from tightening it down (so it doesn’t move).

C5B967B8-4F41-444C-A148-C82AF7576111.jpg

Yes, as I mentioned before the screw is still way to long, and I will have to shorten it. This is what it looks like with the blade in
image.jpg
Without the blade, this is how far it sticks into the blade holder
image.jpg
What is the disadvantage with multiple retention screws?

[Seth Skywalker]

My second order just came in today consisting of: 8 ft of 26 gauge wire, kobold d-ring, black 1/4" set screw, and a 3.7 li-ion battery charger. Took a look what it looks like with the set screw vs the screw I already have wich, I think looks better. It just ads more detail and flavor in my opinion. Anyways, will be having a lot of work to do tomorrow. Drilling and tapping through some threads for the d-ring, shortening my retention screw, and make my wiring diagram

[Seth Skywalker]

Aaaarrgh!!!! I was working on my lightsaber today and every thing was working fine drilling holes for my d-ring, notching my kill key, until I was shortening my retention screw, and screwed up (no pun intended). The retention screw just chipped below the line I was cutting with the dremel cutting wheel, and now my retention screw is just a bit to short. It only holds the blade in slightly #%€}£}|>{^£!!! Do any of you know how I can still use this screw? If not I will either have to use the set screw I already have or buy a new one.
Any ways here is what my saber looks like with the d-ring
image.jpg

[Vereous]

Maybe a tiny dab of solder or super glue on the tip of that chipped screw? Not to glue it in, that would be crazy, but just enough to give it a little more length? Hm... But either if those could muk up the threads... Might just have to get a new screw. I try to order extras of everything small, like screws and 4-40 nuts and chassis disks.

Edit: and the saber looks great!

[Seth Skywalker]

Maybe a tiny dab of solder or super glue on the tip of that chipped screw? Not to glue it in, that would be crazy, but just enough to give it a little more length? Hm... But either if those could muk up the threads... Might just have to get a new screw. I try to order extras of everything small, like screws and 4-40 nuts and chassis disks.

Edit: and the saber looks great!

I'll try the super glue, thanks for the reply! I don't know what it is with shortening screws that I mess up. I was shortening the screws for my d-ring and. During the process the screw got so hot it melted the soft/dampening material on the vise and now the screw is not really shiny and has some of that material melted on there. Anyone know how I can remove that? I think I will probably just order a lot more screws.

[Vereous]

Gotta keep temperature in mind. In one of madcows videos he mentions that the 4-40 rod can melt the acrylic chassis disks if you cut or trim them while everything is built together.

More thoughts on extending that screw, I'd say just use the tiniest dabs on the very tip, let it fully dry, and repeat. Keep in mind this is only going to get you something like a millimeter, and it might chip off, I'm not sure. Gotta experiment and be careful. But for the love of Talos, let it totally dry. I don't want you to glue in your set screw. That would suck.

[Greenie]

Seth, use a larger drill bit to very slightly countersink the retention screw hole. It will give you half a turn on that screw. Hopefully, enough to tighten on the blade.

[Seth Skywalker]

Gotta keep temperature in mind. In one of madcows videos he mentions that the 4-40 rod can melt the acrylic chassis disks if you cut or trim them while everything is built together.

More thoughts on extending that screw, I'd say just use the tiniest dabs on the very tip, let it fully dry, and repeat. Keep in mind this is only going to get you something like a millimeter, and it might chip off, I'm not sure. Gotta experiment and be careful. But for the love of Talos, let it totally dry. I don't want you to glue in your set screw. That would suck.

I tried putting on some super glue so far it just evaporated. Geuse I will have to try a different super glue.

Seth, use a larger drill bit to very slightly countersink the retention screw hole. It will give you half a turn on that screw. Hopefully, enough to tighten on the blade.

Sounds like a good idea Greenie, the only thing I would be worried about is that there won't be as much threaded material to grasp, bigger risk of threads getting stripped, but I think it should be fine.

[Greenie]

You say it holds the blade slightly but not tight. I think another half turn should be enough to tighten. The BH should be thick enough. I've threaded through thinner material. Or you could order another screw.