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Thread: Recessing a non-recessed switch hole.....advice needed

  1. #1

    Question Recessing a non-recessed switch hole.....advice needed

    I have a hilt with a hole drilled for a 16mm switch but not recessed I want to use an illuminated momentary AV switch I can use a bezel but that raises the switch up just enough that I cant get the nut to thread onto the switch so I would need to glue it in (would prefer to avoid that) and as it is going to be the saber I duel with in The Saber Legion I would like the switch to be as low profile as possible so as to not disrupt my grip during sparing....

    Is there a way i can cut the recess into the hilt? a forstner bit perhapse?

    any recommendations would be greatly appriciated.....




    n
    Last edited by Darth_Banyon; 05-01-2018 at 09:34 PM.
    Fear.. fear attracts the fearful...the strong...the weak.. the innocent...the corrupt...
    fear is my ally


  2. #2

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    Forstner bits are really for wood. Yes they can be used, but not well. What you want is a countersink bit. Go slow, a few turns, then test. It is real easy to go too far. Keep the bezel on inside of hilt. This gives a flat flush for the nut, and added stability after countersink widends hole . Best of luck.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  3. #3

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    I would say a step drill would be better. A Forstner wouldnt cut metal and you would need to drill the whole hole with it as there is no way to center it. Harbor Freight has a fairly large duo that should easily accommodate the hole you need.

  4. #4

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    I use countersink bits for this, and a drill press, and lots of tests. Go very slow, so you don't go too deep, then your hosed with a switch box.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon View Post
    I use countersink bits for this, and a drill press, and lots of tests. Go very slow, so you don't go too deep, then your hosed with a switch box.

    Tom
    Well I was planning on getting a cheap drill press from harbor freight anyway guess I'll just have to move up the timetable on that...
    Fear.. fear attracts the fearful...the strong...the weak.. the innocent...the corrupt...
    fear is my ally


  6. #6

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    Another tip, grab one of their Self-Centering Drill Press Jigs while you're getting the press. You don't want it moving while drilling.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  7. #7

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    If you are getting a drill press make sure you buy two items. A two axis vice, HF sells one, and a center finder. It looks like an inverted “V” and has a pointer on the top. When your centered the marks will line up at the top.

    Then use the size drill used to make the original hole to find your exact center. Measure the width of the flange on your switch and here is where the fun starts. I use 4 fluted flat ended milling bit.move it into the piece very slowly to make certain you are centered then just enough to make your switch as low as you want. Keep track of your metal thickness.....

    The trick here is to drill the first hole and countersink BEFORE moving the piece again....

  8. #8

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    Speaking of drill presses...

    I just got the Dremel 220-01 Rotary Tool Workstation Drill Press - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01...ll+press&psc=1

    Pretty sure this is a piece of junk (haven't used it yet).

    Any recommendations?

    I do not know how often I would ever use a drill press (unless I really get into making sabers), so the under $50 price was pretty good. I also already have a Dremel (very low model).

  9. #9
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhillB View Post
    Speaking of drill presses...

    I just got the Dremel 220-01 Rotary Tool Workstation Drill Press - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01...ll+press&psc=1

    Pretty sure this is a piece of junk (haven't used it yet).

    Any recommendations?

    I do not know how often I would ever use a drill press (unless I really get into making sabers), so the under $50 price was pretty good. I also already have a Dremel (very low model).
    Good for small, soft material things and as a fixture for holding the dremel while grinding/sanding/polishing. Not good for drilling clean holes in saber parts. Get a real drill press for that
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  10. #10

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    I learn all the time to buy the right tool for the job and not to go cheap on that tool. You’ll be surprised how much you will actually use it down the road. If you buy a good tool and not a piece of crap. It would be great to use a tool you have had 20 years on something you didn’t for see at the moment and being pleased you purchased something good way back then. It sucks buying the same tool more than once only to realize you should have bought the right tool to begin with. Words of Wisdom from me is to buy a good drill press.
    “ Do or do not “ don’t go part way.

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