It basically takes the (relatively) weak signal from that particular pad and amplifies it to where it can power a die on its own.
I don't think it effects voltage, just gives the amperage needed to drive the die.
It basically takes the (relatively) weak signal from that particular pad and amplifies it to where it can power a die on its own.
I don't think it effects voltage, just gives the amperage needed to drive the die.
Here is a picture of the PEX:
Attached to a NBIV and wired up:
So, its running through a SMD resistor and a Mosfet. A mosfet is sort of an electronic micro switch/gate/transistor. Its fairly difficult for me to explain it; however, you don't want to wire your LED direct to L3 on the board. Erv didn't have any room left on the little biscuit to add the SMD components for channel 3, so you have to use the PEX to enable channel 3 properly. He did this to keep the biscotte very small, and adding the PEX doesn't really add any bulk to the already small board. Its as small as an SD slot, as you can see.
Tom
"Mistakes are our greatest teacher."
Gary,
PS: The blue wire to PEX is coming from the L3 pad on the bottom of the board. The white wire is coming from the GND(-) pad on the underside as well. This way I keep all my wiring pads clean on th side of the board facing camera. Also, on the PEX, the tinned pad without a wire receives my negative wire from my blue diode. I wire mine: Red to L1, Green to L2, and Blue to L3 (on the PEX). That is why my L3 wire is blue, it goes to blue diode. The wire that connects to that tinned pad will also be blue that goes to my blue diode in the star.
Tom
"Mistakes are our greatest teacher."
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