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Thread: Prizm 5.1 won't change fonts....everything else works fine

  1. #1

    Default Prizm 5.1 won't change fonts....everything else works fine

    This is my first Prizm 5.1--I've previously used the NB4's with no issue, but wanted blaster deflect and lockup options. I've followed the videos posted by Rob at TCSS about changing Saber fonts on the SD Card using other Plecter Labs boards (over 10 times now), but no matter what I do, I can't get the card to change fonts when pressing the auxillary button. If I load a NB4 SD card into the slot, it will change fonts, although not much else works right. All of the aux options work fine, just no font change. Has anyone had this happen to them? I'm open to suggestions.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2

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    If the NB4 SD card seems to work (at least in regards to changing fonts) then you might want to try to reformat your original Prizm SD card and reload the default software. You can download the default software from the PlecterLabs website. Test the aux switch with the three default fonts and if that works fine then copy the original files to your hard drive. Make a duplicate of those files to load in your custom fonts and ensure the banks are labeled properly in lowercase with no spaces (e.g. bank1 thru bank6). Reformat your Prizm SD card once again and copy over the modified files. You might also want to change the valsnd in the override text to 0 which allow you to switch between fonts faster.

  3. #3

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    ***UPDATE 5/20/2018***

    Ok, so I thought maybe I had a faulty board, so I got around to switching out to an extra PRIZM 5.1 I had bought to do another conversion. All the connections were made, put in the soundcard with the custom sound fonts, and I'm getting the same issues. So now I'm thinking I have something wired wrong. Here is a rundown of how I've got everything wired.....

    1. I have tri-cree DR/DR/White--I have the two DR's using the same resistors I normally use for the NB4 and I've read should work ok. However, I DO have them tied together and running into a single wire attached to the first LED pad of the Prizm annd the negative attached to the 3rd pad. I know there is Pad 2--should I be connecting the positive LED wires separately using pad 1 and 2? Or does it matter?

    2. The saber plays sound and ignites, but when it first boots up, it plays continuous clashes and deflections.

    3. Still can't get it to change sound fonts. Even using the standard Light, Grey, and Dark meat. And I've already tried a different momentary switch.

    4. I'm using the stock latching switch from Master Replicas for ignition--could this cause any type of short on the board? Not sure how they are rated or if it even matters.

    5. I'm just trying to brainstorm what could cause a short on the board to cause the aux switch not to change sound fonts but it does function well for blaster deflects and lockups.

    6. I have done quick and standard formats repeatedly on the card, with the same results each time.

    7. Should I be changing settings in the sound files using notepad? I went to change the valsnd value to 0, but it is defaulted to that already. Also, there is both an override folder, and an override-no profile folder on the card. I assume they are supposed to both be there.

    Any help, suggestions, or insights would be helpful. Thank you very much in advance.
    Last edited by Witchking; 05-20-2018 at 08:02 AM.

  4. #4

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    I have no excperience with the PRIZM but maybe you bridged the pads?

  5. #5

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    If you are using a latching switch, you have to make sure the switch setting is properly set for that.

    Each LED SHOULD have its own resistor. The NEGATIVE wires get connected to L1, L2, etc., and the resistors should be on those wires. They should NOT BE sharing a pad.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  6. #6

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    Yes, I've been reading through the manual and just found the setting for using a latching switch. I have left the config files alone as I thought they were good to go out of the package, but now I'm seeing that the Prizm requires some setup.

    Ok, sorry, they are the negatives of each LED that are wired to the board. So I should give each one it's own pad? And each led does have it's own resistor, I just currently have the resistors in-line from the pad to the common wire they are sharing.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Witchking View Post

    Ok, sorry, they are the negatives of each LED that are wired to the board. So I should give each one it's own pad? And each led does have it's own resistor, I just currently have the resistors in-line from the pad to the common wire they are sharing.
    From the sounds of what you said, it sounds like you have TWO LEDs sharing ONE resistor. If so, I DO NOT recommend that. There is a LED wiring diagram in the manual, follow THAT.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

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    No, each color has it's own resistor. After the resistors, they are soldered together to one wire, which is then soldered to the L1 pad. That's the way I soldered the NB4, so I used it on this board because I thought I had read somewhere that since both of the colors were DR, they could share a pad. I think that was a mistake, so I'm going to disconnect them and put each DR to their own pad (L1, L2), and leave the white FOC wired to the L3 pad. I'm also going to change the switch setting for the latching switch in the config file. I think that since it is defaulted to 2, it is reading my activated latching switch as a momentary switch that is continuously being held down.

  9. #9

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    Yes, the two CAN NOT SHARE 1 pad.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

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    **UPDATE 5/23/2018**

    PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Today was my first day off, so I redid the wiring and gave each negative for the LED's it's own pad. Fired the board up---and same problem. The crazy thing that fixed it---changing the switch setting to 0 or 1. Once I changed the config settings to where they needed to be, the fonts change, the board sounds great, and I'm relieved that I can cross off this project.

    One last question though---I don't get as many swing sounds as I did on the other boards. Does anyone have a good setting for the swing sensor on the Prizm 5.1?

    Thank you to everyone for responding with ideas and suggestions--I really appreciate it

    Lynn

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