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Thread: what more do i need for my graflex?

  1. #1

    Default what more do i need for my graflex?

    Hi all I built all the electronics for a saber with the following parts :
    Nano Biscotte V4
    Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
    16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Cog Switch
    BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire
    Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes
    Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)
    Saber Essentials 28mm Stealth V2 Speaker

    i'm planing to buy the "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD
    What more do i need to complete the saber?
    graflex 2.5 kit or Graflex Flashgun Replica?
    do i need more stuff?

    thank you,
    <3

  2. #2

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    Having just completed a Graflex 2.0 (which is also my first FX saber build), I know exactly where you’re at. I assume that you simply forgot to list the battery charger and recharge port, but I’m still mentioning them, just in case! You’ll also need an auxiliary switch to select fonts and trigger sound effects. And probably a blade plug. And a chassis for the battery and soundboard.

    The Graflex 2.5 and Graflex Shop replicas are more friendly to electronics than a standard flashgun replica. The Graflex Shop version is more accurate to a real flashgun than the 2.5 is, but the 2.5 can be whipped into shape with a few replacement parts, as I did on my build. The 2.5 kit also comes with the add-ons (black grips, clamp card, etc.) to actually make a saber out of the flashgun, but some of the parts aren’t super-accurate. Depends on which version of the saber you’re going for, too. I went ESB on mine.

    It all depends on what you’re going for: accuracy vs. durability, etc.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by mitzi View Post
    Hi all I built all the electronics for a saber with the following parts :
    Nano Biscotte V4
    Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
    16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Cog Switch
    BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire
    Heatsink module for 1" ID tubes
    Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)
    Saber Essentials 28mm Stealth V2 Speaker

    i'm planing to buy the "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD
    What more do i need to complete the saber?
    graflex 2.5 kit or Graflex Flashgun Replica?
    do i need more stuff?

    thank you,
    <3
    If you're running nanobiscotte V4, you don't need an aux switch. If you're building a Graflex 2.5, you don't need the 16 mm cog switch. Why are you using Luxeon Tri-Rebel instead of the tri-crees offered at TCSS? You don't need a buckpuck, the soundboard (NBV4) is regulating the current to some extent.

    You will need chassis for the kit, rc port, as stated by Gregaraton. If you get a chassis with crystal chamber, you will also need the LED to use to wire that up. Before you order anything, I highly suggest you download and read the Nanobiscotte IV manual. Furthermore, for the general feel/instructions on the hilt, there is a YouTube series called, "Lets build a graflex." You can watch that series for help in understanding how the Graflex 2.0/2.5 gets put together.

    For learning how to wire/solder basic sabers, I strongly recommend watching all the TCSS tutorials for basic sabers on the TCSS YouTube Page. Most of those videos were done by Madcow, and are also linked here in the tutorial videos section of this forum. Those videos by Madcow and TCSS are also worth their weight in Gold. I think before you set out to ordering all of your stuff, you really ought to do the reading/watching of what I have suggested first and foremost. Then you can start a build thread for your saber, and ask any questions as you're ordering. While its all exciting to be beginning, don't rush it!

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #4

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    Thank You Tom and Gregatron
    i read a lot and watched a lot of tutorials.. thats how i already built all the electronics, solder everything and everything is perfectly working
    i was super excited to hear the sound of the boot up
    now since everything seems to be working im looking forward to move to the hilt section..
    i'm gonna go with the graflex 2.5 kit
    and i thought changing the original glass eye to the 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Cog Switch that i bought cause i really like the way it look
    i actually simultaneously bought the Tri-Rebel, are the Tri-crees better?

    and few more questions about the blade part
    what is the best size that will fit the graflex 2.5 kit?
    and do i need a blade holder or it comes with one?

    and if there is anything im missing i will very much appreciated if you let me know what it is

    thank you very much guys <3

  5. #5

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    The graflex 2.5 comes with a blade-holder that accepts 7/8 inch blades. I don't know if the 16mm cog will fit where the glass eye goes. The switch sits pretty deep, and it would probably block your blade from seating into the blade holder.

    Generally on Graflex 2.5's there are a few switch options. Since you're running NBIV, and need only one switch, I highly suggest wiring up the red button switch. Its fairly easy to do. Once you get the kit, post here that you're ready, and we can fill you in. There are tutorials on the internet of how to wire the red button as well. I like tri-crees better. You definitely don't need the buck puck.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #6

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    Oh please don’t put an av switch in the glass eye socket. Listen to Tom please

  7. #7

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    ok guys thank you i saw the video of how to wire the red button ill go for it
    what is the difference between the thick wall blade and the thin wall blade visually speaking?

  8. #8

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    I think thin walled blades can be a bit brighter. Thick walled blades hold up better to heavy contact with other blades. With that being said; however, I have never broken a thin-walled blade dueling with other sabers. I have thrown tips off, but never broke a blade.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  9. #9

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    thank you very much Tom! you helped me a lot

  10. #10

    Default

    Yeah, it comes down to your personal preferences. Is this a dueling saber or a shelf queen? Would you prefer red button activation or clamp activation? That sort of thing.


    For my own build, I went above and beyond in terms of accurate parts and whatnot, because I wanted as accurate a hilt as possible (which meant replacing the bunny ears, red buttons, clamp card, d-ring, and all of the screws, as well as adding the brass contact strips and chrome tape, and removing the beer tab), wanted clamp activation with dual aux switches, and didn’t need a thick blade for dueling. I haven’t posted photos or video, yet, but I’ll get around to it.

    I also went with the stock 7/8” blade holder, and used a tri-Cree setup. I’m very happy with it.

    Which version are you building, anyway? If you’re going for hilt movie-accuracy, all versions of the Graflex saber need a bit of work. If not, the stock Graflex 2.5 kit is still perfectly serviceable right out of the box, as long as you’re not nitpicky about the details.

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