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Thread: 2nd Build Wiring Diagram. Let's up the ante

  1. #1

    Default 2nd Build Wiring Diagram. Let's up the ante

    So after the completion of my first successful build, of course I want to turn my attention to build #2.
    Once more I ask for checks on my wiring as I want to add a recharge port (and battery module) to the build. I also really liked the use of the MWS wiring harness as it let's me remove the chassis for easier access. I've modified it's use a bit in this build but hopefully I've done so correctly.
    As always, any corrections, pointers and comments are welcome.
    Thanks everyone and MTFBWY!
    Screen Shot 2018-04-25 at 9.49.30 AM.jpg
    https://imgur.com/a/RuR2X1K
    Last edited by CreativeForce; 04-25-2018 at 09:55 AM.

  2. #2

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    So did it work? I am planning to do my first build just as this one, but with a Latching switch instead of a Kill key and a removable battery (don't like kill key, If you're in full costume mask and all , take the killl key out , then you have to keep track of the damn thingy.)
    I find your lack of candy treats disturbing —Halloween Vader

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcgardea View Post
    So did it work? I am planning to do my first build just as this one, but with a Latching switch instead of a Kill key and a removable battery (don't like kill key, If you're in full costume mask and all , take the killl key out , then you have to keep track of the damn thingy.)
    You dont "need" a kill key. The deep sleep works just fine. Leave the kill key at home.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcgardea View Post
    So did it work? I am planning to do my first build just as this one, but with a Latching switch instead of a Kill key and a removable battery (don't like kill key, If you're in full costume mask and all , take the killl key out , then you have to keep track of the damn thingy.)
    LOL, I Haven't built it yet.This is only step one - drawing it out, and planning the chassis build. Last one worked out great so I'm getting a little more ambitious this time around. I'll be using a kill key only because the way I've got this configured, the light in the switch will always be on if I don't.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by CreativeForce View Post
    LOL, I Haven't built it yet.This is only step one - drawing it out, and planning the chassis build. Last one worked out great so I'm getting a little more ambitious this time around. I'll be using a kill key only because the way I've got this configured, the light in the switch will always be on if I don't.
    Why would you wire it that way...?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by PCModulus View Post
    Why would you wire it that way...?
    Is there a better way? Ideally I would want it to come on with the activation switch, but I wasn't sure if I could wire up the negative of the LED in the switch to the ACT on the NBIV? Or would it be the positive to the ACT? Sorry, still pretty new to this and want to make sure I don't mess up.
    Last edited by CreativeForce; 04-26-2018 at 09:29 AM.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by CreativeForce View Post
    Is there a better way? Ideally I would want it to come on with the activation switch, but I wasn't sure if I could wire up the negative of the LED in the switch to the ACT on the NBIV? Or would it be the positive to the ACT? Sorry, still pretty new to this and want to make sure I don't mess up.
    Ideally, you want it lit when the saber is on, not all the time. Wire it parallel with the main LED.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by PCModulus View Post
    Ideally, you want it lit when the saber is on, not all the time. Wire it parallel with the main LED.
    That's how I did my first build which was a tri R,R,rB star, since I knew the red would be on all the time.
    With an R,G,B star (And please correct me here if my reasoning is incorrect) if I were to wire the switch LED in with the LED 1 pad, wouldn't it only light up if I'm using that color? In other words, If LED 1 = Red die, and I do a Cyan blade (G+B only) wouldn't the switch LED be turned "off" as well?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by CreativeForce View Post
    That's how I did my first build which was a tri R,R,rB star, since I knew the red would be on all the time.
    With an R,G,B star (And please correct me here if my reasoning is incorrect) if I were to wire the switch LED in with the LED 1 pad, wouldn't it only light up if I'm using that color? In other words, If LED 1 = Red die, and I do a Cyan blade (G+B only) wouldn't the switch LED be turned "off" as well?
    Oh duh, i did miss that rgb part didnt i lol. You can use the deep sleep pad then, or the 3.3v pad with the PEx.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by PCModulus View Post
    Oh duh, i did miss that rgb part didnt i lol. You can use the deep sleep pad then, or the 3.3v pad with the PEx.
    Ah, thanks for turning on the lightbulb for me! So reading through the manual it sounds like the deep sleep pad would be the most effective for me (especially if I forget/lose the kill key) That's a tiny pad, definitely going to test my nascent soldering skills.

    So this is my new configuration and I would still have the ability to disconnect the chassis from the hilt. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

    Screen Shot 2018-04-26 at 1.10.13 PM.jpg
    https://imgur.com/a/CxxlgIa

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