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Thread: circuit double check

  1. #1

    Default circuit double check

    Hi everyone. This is my first saber build and i think i bit off more than i can chew. I've put it together and taken it apart 3 times, just can't it to work. Can you see if this circuit is correct.

    Thanks very much.

    Sabor circuit.jpg

  2. #2

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    Looks correct, hard to read at its size. 4.7 ohm resistor on one of your main LED's? That's pretty heavy for 3.7 volt system. Which LED Star/Color are you using? Also, 82 ohm resistor on the blue 5mm accent LED is too heavy, it won't have enough juice to ignite the LED. Blue 5mm should have a resistor more along the lines of 18-20 ohms. I can't read what color star you're running, but if its B,B,W..... ".47 ohm" resistors suffice there, you probably don't need any on white, but to be safe, you can run a .47 ohm there as well.

    Check continuity on all your lines from LED to board. Check continuity between battery and RC Port. Make sure you didn't wire your RC Port wrong.

    Pull the kill key, and check to make sure you have 3.7-4.2 volts at your board. If you don't have volts at board, you have a problem in your power circuit/rc port wiring/rc port.

    If you have less than 3.7 volts, you need to charge your battery, and if your rc port is hooked up wrong, you may not be charging your battery.

    Overall, aside from the issues with your resistors, your diagram looks sound. There are simpler (less wiry) ways of wiring your main LED star, but what you have done should work.

    Are you getting boot sound, or anything? Is your SD card inserted? Are your config files set up? If you have proper voltage at the board when you pull the kill key, try removing your SD, reformatting, and putting the stock config files back on it. If you don't have a multi-meter, you need one, and you need to learn how to use it. They can be a life saver for reals.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 04-08-2018 at 10:09 PM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #3

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    Hi Tom, Thanks for the reply. not sure why the picture was so small. I'm using a Tri Cree XPE-2 Blue, Blue White LED and a nano Bisotti V4 board. Ill try to add a large photo of the circuit.

    You said there are simpler ways to wire, can you give me a suggestion. I don't have much room in my hilt, im making a Luke ESB saber with Goth3d Knight kit, very tight fit.

    Thanks again.

    Jeremy

    ciruit.jpg

  4. #4

    Default

    Sorry let me answer the rest of your questions. Yes i have the SD card in and no I'm not getting any sounds, but without the LED's connected i get sounds and clash noises, the my resistors being wrong makes since. I have a multi-meter but couldn't find any spec's that show how to verify the Nano board is working. I ran home at lunch and checked i am getting over 3v on the Nano board (think is read 3.5v) on the board so the battery is almost fully charged but ill put it on the charger anyway to top it off.

    Again any suggestion to make it less wiry would be awesome and very appreciated.

    Not sure why the picture is so small so just to verify here's the hardware i have.
    - Tri Cree XPE-2 (blue, Blue, White)
    - 5mm Blue LED
    - 18650 3.7v battery
    - Nano biscotti V4 board
    - 2.1mm recharge port
    - simple switch

    Cheers - Jeremy

  5. #5

    Default

    at 3.5 volts, the battery is dead. It needs to be charged. A fully charged 18650 will be producting 4.2 volts.

    You should have a continuity tester on your multimeter. The fact that you are getting sounds when your LED's aren't hooked up tells me that your battery is dying or tripping due to low voltage once the load is on it. Charge the battery!

    On the Knight Chassis, I use 30ga PTFE wire, it saves room. You can use 26 ga PTFE on the LED feeds if you want, but 30 can most certainly carry the switch loads.

    I common all the positives on my LED Star, and only send one positive wire down from the LED star to the board. I then put resistors on my negative legs. So, on my LED star, I only have 4 wires. 3 negatives (one from each diode), and one positive. The resistors go on the negative legs, which go to your pads L1, L2 (L3 with pex) on NanoBiscotte. The way resistors work, you can put them anywhere in the circuit, and they will slow the flow through the circuit.

    Charge your battery, its dead. DOn't change your wiring, what you have done is fine, unless you haven't assembled yet. The method I told you about will save you some space.

    Tom

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 04-09-2018 at 08:32 AM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #6

    Default

    Thank you Tom.. hopefully will work on it this weekend and post how it goes.

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