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Thread: Hasbro Black Series Rey Jedi Training FX Lightsaber Conversion

  1. #1

    Default Hasbro Black Series Rey Jedi Training FX Lightsaber Conversion

    Here we go again!
    What I have on hand:
    Hasbro BS Rey Jedi Training Graflex Lightsaber
    Graflex 2.5 red button/glass eye
    Kobald D-Ring from Graflex 2.5 kit
    4-40 slotted screws
    Set Screws
    Tactile Switch
    KR Brass Tabs

    TCSS Shopping list!
    Royal Blue, Blue, White XP-E2 tri-cree LED Star
    TCSS Luke Skywalker/Rey Conversion Kit
    MHS V6 Chassis
    18650 Battery Holder
    Nano Biscotte Version IV Soundboard (Hey, comes in a neat new box with TCSS logo on it!!!)
    Plecter Labs Power Extender
    T-8 Tubing
    Short Graflex Pins

    So, I stripped the saber down to nothing but the hilt. I then affixed the Kobald D-Ring to the pommel by stripping the old one, and installing new one with Rivets.

    I then popped out the chincy plastic rivets, drilled holes, and popped in real metal rivets. I then punched out the puller core to hollow the rivets out for sound emission. I sprung a leak in the process.

    I then dremeled a wire channel in the conversion kit for red button activation. I then channeled through the bezel base for the wires to pass. I then passed the wires through my channel into the hilt, and up through the button hole. I then used E6000 to secure the button into the bezel. I painted the anodized red button (leftover from an old 2.0 kit) with brick red paint. Once that was dry, I wired a 2.0 tactile switch to my wires. I then secured the tactile button to the red button with E6000. Once that set up, I used E6000 to secure the PCB on the base of the tactile button to the inside of the 2.0 button. Bingo, red button activation on a Hasbro! PS, the red button base has to be milled down so it fits in the Hasbro button bezel!

    I then drilled and tapped the glass button inset for 10-24 threads so I could install a 2.0 Glass Eye on the bottom. I then milled down the glass eye to expose the brass underneath the chrome (as it appears in TFA, and TLJ). I then screwed in the glass eye! Here she blows:

    Because I had the clamp apart for the conversion, I reduced the penetrants from the clamp into the hilt with a dremel. On re-assembly of the clamp, I used E600 to secure the circuit card (it used to slide up and down to activate the saber).

    I then assembled the MHS Version 6 chassis and 18650 Battery Holder and Veco 28 MM bass speaker. Once all that was assembled, I began passing my LED/Switch leads into the chassis for soldering to the nano biscotte.

    Here is the board and power extender wired up!

    Check out the scoochin new boxes the NBIV's come in! That is a nice touch.

    Chassis assembly in T-8 ready to slide home!

    Assembled Saber:

    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 08-01-2018 at 08:27 AM. Reason: 10-24-10-32 for glass eye posted wrong thread dimensions

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #2


    Video of her in action:

    Thanks for watching!


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #3


    I just talked to the owner of this saber last week, and its still going strong 8 years later!!!! He wants to convert it to neopixel with smooth swing now. That makes me pretty proud that this saber has endured like that. Hopefully my upgrade will give the saber another decade of use! That is pretty awesome.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #4


    Nice, it's good work. I personally did a conversion of a '05 MR Vader to CFX Pixel a while ago for a client, pretty happy with how it turned out.


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